Krug and Hamachi, Who Knew?

by Cynthia Sin-Yi Cheng
May 27, 2008

24 5th Ave
@ 9th St
New York, NY 10011

At a recent Acker Merrall & Condit auction, I witnessed an insane number of older champagnes being sold. The deal of the night was a pair of 1959 Dom Pérignon rosés that fetched $85,000!

Suffice it to say, for a champagne lover, just the electrifying atmosphere of the room that night got me high. And this was only compounded by the occasion to taste a 1962 Dom Pérignon (showing beautifully, with balanced acidity and brightness laced with roasted nuts), followed by a 1945 Bollinger (over the hill, with bitter notes from mid-palate onward, and a complete loss of structure).

Another pleasant surprise was my hamachi crudo appetizer paired with Krug Grande Cuvée ($295). I never thought delicate raw fish could stand up to the opulence of a cask-aged champagne. But I was wrong. The velvety texture of the raw hamachi and the power of Krug complemented each other convincingly.

Since my hamachi dish was from a special menu for the auction that night, I can’t promise Cru will have it on their regular menu, but, as I discovered this surprise pairing just by experimenting, I hope you will, too! Or, bring a bottle of Krug to your favorite sushi bar.

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