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April 17, 2014
Nancy Matsumoto

This issue of Cravings is devoted to the joys of salumi and charcuterie, those dried, cured, steamed, spiced and shaped happiness delivery systems. Today’s innovative chefs and artisans are putting new twists on Old World traditions, revealing the rich potential of local heritage meats.

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng A. Il Ristorante Rosi

If it’s your first time at Il Ristorante Rosi, order the Gran Piatto (large dish) to try the widest selection of chef Cesare Casella’s ethereal salumi, including the imported garnet-toned prosciutto di Parma, lard-flecked mortadella and pale pink Parmacotto ham. Michele Zanichelli, who works Salumeria Rosi’s meat and cheese counter with... full article

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng B. Lincoln

Every week, Lincoln Ristorante chef Jonathan Benno receives a whole pig from his supplier, Vermont Quality Meats. He prefers heritage Durocs for their “great meat-to-fat ratio and exceptional flavor.” Broken down, the animal provides everything from loin chops to testa, and brings a robust Italian earthiness to the menu. We were... full article

Nancy Matsumoto C. Alla Spina

With its industrial, rough-around the edges décor, deep list of rare Italian brews and an all-embracing nose-to-tail ethic, Alla Spina is the Marc Vetri family of restaurant’s tattooed little brother. Amid a gem-studded menu that includes crab and horseradish deviled eggs and pigtails agrodolce, it is the beer and Chef Pat Szoke’s... full article

Nancy Matsumoto D. Epicerie Boulud

In summer the doors of this gleaming shop are thrown open to the street and friends gather for a glass of wine and a platter of oysters from the raw bar. Others gaze, wide-eyed, at the assortment of charcuterie, daily sandwich and salad specials and eye-popping pastries, trying to decide on what to get for a quick dinner or a... full article