Scott Conant’s spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and basil is unparalleled. Even the original Underground Gourmet, Milton Glaser, agrees that as easy as it seems, this spaghetti is just outstanding. It was one of my favorite pastas in town when Conant was chef at L’Impero, and I was mortified when they took it off the menu after he left. But a year later, I am thrilled he’s put out a slightly modified version at his new restaurant, Scarpetta. I hear that the secret is the butter and cheese, which makes it rich, but what I love is the fresh fragrant tomato and basil. No one makes it quite like this.