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Carne Crudo
May 20, 2006

A Voce Madison

Carne Crudo

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng

The carne cruda is basically an Italian rendition of steak tartar, and this might be my favorite in town. The choice of beef, which is finely diced, is Wagyu, a genetic breed of beef that is predisposed to well marbling of fat. (The most famous type of Wagyu is Kobe beef, which must come from Kobe and meet strict standards set by the Japanese prefecture to qualify for the official designation.) French steak tartar generally relies more on mustard, so it has a bit of tartness. A Voce’s carne cruda, in contrast, blends in an emulsified truffle vinaigrette, which makes it taste smooth and creamy. Walnuts and celery add a layer of texture as well as a nutty and fresh flavor. And the truffle in the vinaigrette does its job of enhancing flavor though almost inconspicuously. I could barely stop eating this with the serving of perfectly toasted country bread but managed to restrain myself when I thought about all the other dishes I wanted to try.

A Voce Madison

41 Madison Ave
New York, NY
Madison Square