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2004 Warm Lake Estate
August 01, 2006

The North Fork Table & Inn

2004 Warm Lake Estate

Celia Sin-Tien Cheng

As I was eager to try something new, Mike proposed a Pinot Noir from the Niagara Escarpment. Okay, so it’s not local per se, but it’s still New York State. I said yes to the 2004 Warm Lake Estate ($85). Given that the Niagara Escarpment is similar in climate and soil to Burgundy,  Pinot is a variety that should do well in this little discovered region. The wine was seductive by sight, a dirty medium rose color, but at the same time incredibly light to the point where you’d imagine a wine lacking in character and taste. Mike explained that the region experienced heavy rainfall in 2004, resulting in the diluted appearance of the wine that year. The nose promised lots of spice and bright red berries, and the taste followed through with more layers of complexity after each sip. However, the general consensus was that the wine reached an apex then started to falter slowly, leaving us all a bit disappointed in the end. Having said this, I was happy to have tried the wine and would happily re-taste wines from Warm Lake — the winery name leaves a bit more to be desired — in the future. My only criticism would be the QPR (Quality-Price Ratio). The wine did not meet my expectation for a whopping eighty-five dollars. By the way, rumor has it that Paul Grieco, general manager of Hearth, has been itching to get this wine on his list.

The North Fork Table & Inn

57225 Main Road
Southhold, NY