Fiddlehead Fern Ravioli
by Celia Cheng
June 26th, 2007
PERILLA
9 Jones St
(Bleecker & W 4th St)
212-929-6868
You will have to excuse me, but it’s been a rough month. My worst nightmare has come back to haunt me after years of dormancy; I had an allergic reaction to something I ate! I’ll spare you the gruesome details, but it’s put me out of commission for ten days: can’t drink alcohol, staying away from seafood, fruits and nuts, and worst of all, my taste buds have gone psychedelic.
However, it was an extremely busy month with lots of tastings before the fateful meal that did me in, so I’m going to summarize some highlights and nadirs of this month’s NYC food adventures.
Contrary to my general style of saving the best for last, let’s start out with the surprising hit of the month, Perilla. Chef Harold Dieterle, being a Top Chef winner, really had to prove himself to me. Formerly a sous chef at The Harrison, he had to be talented, but you have to question what type of person wants to appear on Top Chef. Forgive me, but I don’t believe in reality television shows. With Perilla, Dieterle is not merely coasting on his new celebrity status, he’s chosen to open a small neighborhood joint, taking the philosophy of his former employers Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abrams (and much of their staff), and creating the type of food he wants, with lots of Asian influences. And it’s not heavy-handed either; it’s simply pleasant. The entrée fiddlehead fern ravioli with fava beans, morels and truffle butter was so mouth-wateringly delicious that when I had finished, I wanted to start the meal all over again. The atmosphere clearly strives to recreate the success of The Red Cat, but Perilla strikes me as trendier and I don’t quite connect with it in the same way. Still, it’s very new, the food is delicious and the service personable, so I have high hopes that it will become a lasting neighborhood hangout.
I also had high hopes for the oyster po’ boy at Cookshop. Cynthia had been raving about it, so we went for a lunch tasting one day. Conceptually, the po’ boy sounded amazing, with a side of potato salad and slice of pickle, but not a single ingredient really stood out, so, from a flavor standpoint, the oyster po’ boy (and potato salad) fell flat. Sorry, I really wanted to love it.
Mercat was another new try for me. From calling to get a reservation to leaving the restaurant, there was plenty of frustration due to disorganization and newbies on the job, but since they are a new kid on the block, I’m going to be nice, for now. The patatas bravas was a total knock out and has been added to the Craving section, so let’s move on.
After a little shopping at Jeffrey, it only made sense to stop in at Fatty Crab for a snack. I know I’ve praised Fatty Crab plenty of times, but it just makes me happy. Another addition to Craving this month is Fatty Crab’s pork buns. Just stellar! The watermelon bellini was the perfect fizzy antidote to the rich flavors of the juicy pork buns. A side of steamed baby bok choi with oyster sauce, olive oil, and yuzu juice was so simple but perfectly completed my Saturday afternoon craving. Great snack choice any time of day!
With all the press dollars spent on announcing the revamping of Suba’s menu by Boqueria’s Seamus Mullen (despite his brief hiatus due to surgery for a bout with rheumatoid arthritis), I was silly enough to take the bate. The last time I felt so gross in a LES meat market was at Stanton Social, but at least the food made it worthwhile. I couldn’t wait to resurface from the fake grotto at Suba and wash off the film of slime I felt all over me. The food is fine, but not spectacular. There’s no competition between Suba and Boqueria.
With New York Magazine’s recent study of street food, Cartography, I decided to try Carnegie John’s (street cart on 56th St and 7th Ave) cheeseburger, as I just couldn’t wait in the long line for my usual at Tony’s (street vendor on 62nd St and Madison Ave). Since John is Tony’s disciple, I figured he was worth trying and may be just as good as Tony’s. After the taste test, I decided that I’m a purist of sorts and still favor Tony’s cheeseburger, which I find to be juicier and more flavorful. But something that struck me as odd in the New York article was the comparison of John’s cheeseburger to Burger Joint’s. That is like comparing apples and oranges. You can compare Tony’s and John’s burgers because stylistically they are the same street vendor food, and you can compare Burger Joint and Shake Shack’s burgers accordingly, but the John and Burger Joint comparison doesn’t fly. I know I am splitting hairs here. I will probably get lambasted by millions of burger fans out there because everyone feels very strongly about their personal preferences. So I rest my case.
Down in the East Village, I didn’t even realize that Mamoun’s had opened a branch on St. Mark’s between 2nd and 3rd Avenues about six months ago. Is it just me, or has the novelty of Mamoun’s worn off? I won’t argue that it’s not cheap, but there has to be better falafal out there. Anyone?!
Continuing east, the newest ramen shop, Setagaya, a Japanese chain, opened on 1st Avenue between St. Mark’s Place and 9th Street. I mean, it was supposed to open, but due to health inspections, the opening was delayed. I found out when I stopped by on “opening night” and there was a sign posted in Japanese only about the delay. Thankfully I could read it. It seems that they are really making a point of being “authentically Japanese.” There’s a large LCD display on the wall playing Japanese satellite television food shows. Can’t wait to try it.
Finally, for a little Indian fix, Cynthia and I tried out the $6 lunch buffet at Tiffin Wallah in Curry Hill on 28th Street between Park and Lexington Avenues. Is this for real? Southern Indian cuisine (vegetarian), including a dahl, a couple of varieties of curries, a couple different options for rice and Indian pancakes (which I would avoid as I found them dried out and rubbery), and fruit salad, all you can eat for just six bucks?! It’s not amazing, but it’s extremely decent and a great value, so no complaints! Understandably, Tiffin Wallah tries to cover costs through sales of drinks that must be ordered separately. The interior is nice and clean and overall very pleasant. If I lived or worked in the area, I’d be a fixture there at lunch. Good news is that delivery service starts soon! Though the $6 special isn’t available for delivery, the regular menu is extremely reasonable, too.
Let’s end on a sweet note with the Maury Rubin’s second Birdbath store in the West Village. It definitely stands out more than the original East Village shop that wanted to be known for its green concept rather than for its affiliation with City Bakery. This new Birdbath, however, is taking advantage of its branding and association with City Bakery. The shop is cute and blends in well with its West Village environment, aiming to become not just the quintessential neighborhood bakery, but more specifically the neighborhood “green” bakery. The bear claw with apricot filling is a signature treat and very yummy, but not everything is decadent in the way City Bakery desserts are. There are some vegan treats, and vegan is a dirty word in my vocabulary so I steered clear of those items. But whether you go vegan or indulge, the West Village Birdbath is a worthwhile stop that can easily become routine.
Well, there you have it: June in a nutshell, pre-disaster. Hopefully, God will take pity on me rather than punishing me for being a glutton. I really want my taste buds back!
Posted in American , Pasta , Veggies , West Village
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Orecchiette Pork Ragu
by Celia Cheng
March 7th, 2007
EMPLOYEES ONLY
510 Hudson St
(10th & Christopher St)
212-242-3021
I first went to Employees Only on a Sunday for brunch. It was empty and charming. We sat in the outdoor covered terrace and only two other tables were occupied. I wasn’t quite sure why we had been so lucky to have this little haven to ourselves. I was even more confused when the food arrived and it was scrumptious. Was this a secret that no one knew about? My friend Julia and I shared the EO burger and poached eggs with cherry tomato bruschetta, and though tomatoes are out of season, both dishes were still plenty delicious. The burger was a pleasant surprise. The potato pancake on the patty was an ingenious substitute for fries. Tastier, too!
I returned a second time, for dinner, after my sister tipped me off about the to-die-for orecchiete pork ragu. That’s when I realized why the restaurant is so empty at brunch. It’s known more as a bar, and the menu reflects this. It has only a page or two of food and the rest is drinks. Yet the food is so good!
The chestnut and potato dumplings are delicious. I thought the chestnut would be pureed and mixed with the potato filling inside the dumplings, but there are actual chunks of chestnut that accompany the dumplings. Mushrooms and truffle oil complete the taste profile for this total comfort-food dish.
The orecchiette pork ragu left me speechless. Talk about comfort, it really hit a home run. Slow-cooked pork shoulder, carrots, onions, tomatoes and a good dose of red wine did the trick. The meat is so tender it falls apart, the large chucks of tomatoes are juicy and the little ears of pasta and gooey melted cheese make the perfect assemblage. We also peeked over at our neighbor’s pasta, the spaghetti pomodoro, which looked sublime. I love being in a restaurant where each dish turns my head.
The grape-and-arugula salad with pecorino and toasted pine nuts was perfectly pleasant. The only disappointment was the side of Brussel sprouts with pancetta. It was overly greasy. Also, the pancetta was actually bacon, so the texture of the thin, large pieces of crispy meat didn’t quite complement the Brussel sprouts — the way lardon or pancetta would — that were already drowning in oil and juices.
At Employees Only, it’s not just the food that is comforting, but also the warm and inviting atmosphere. Whether you’re at the bar or dining in the outdoor seating area, you feel at home. A nice touch is the tarot-card reader who sits in the little alcove between the entrance of the restaurant and the bar room. You see her immediately as you enter, and this mysterious touch sets the tone for the experience inside.
Dinner, late night drinks or brunch, Employees Only gets my vote!
Posted in American , Drinks , Pasta , Pork , West Village
Asparagus Home Fries
by Celia Cheng
July 11th, 2006
LITTLE OWL
90 Bedford St
@ Grove St
212-741-4695
Little Owl is the charming new restaurant in the West Village helmed by chef Joey Campanaro, who was formerly at The Harrison and Pace. The menu is American and, while rather conventional and simple, the food is good. The restaurant is so appropriately named, as it’s small and unassuming but is a force on its own.
The appetizers I shared with a friend were good but not memorable. We started with a bibb salad and crispy soft shell crab. But the roasted halibut with lemon crème fraîche for main was delicious. The fava-green mashed potatoes that accompanied were out of this world and paired well with the fish.
For sides, the butter beans and escarole with smoked ham hocks sounded good, but the proportion of beans to escarole was too lopsided. The asparagus home fries were the surprise of the evening. Both my companion and I thought we’d be getting a variation of home fries made from asparagus, but this side is actually asparagus with home fries. The potatoes and asparagus are cooked to a crisp, and pieces of mushroom enhance the flavor, creating the perfect hash. I love potatoes and I wouldn’t mind just having this home fries dish with some wine at the bar.
Little Owl’s space is crammed and it’s extremely loud. This is rather odd because, given the restaurant’s location and décor, it should have a very quaint and neighborhood feel. But perhaps because of the noise level and the proximity to which you have to sit next to your neighbor, it’s not the most comfortable restaurant. It’s relatively new so the service is still a little shaky, although it’s not from lack of trying. Everyone who works there is sincere, but the restaurant still needs to figure out its rhythm as well as how to move within that small and jam-packed space. Still, it’s definitely a nice little addition on the map, and I would go back for more.
Posted in American , West Village
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Napa Cabbage Cole Slaw
by Celia Cheng
June 16th, 2006
DIRTY BIRD TO-GO
204 W 14th St
(7th & 8th Ave)
212-620-4836
It’s amazing how a chef’s name can carry so much weight. I have fond memories of chef Allison Vines-Rushing’s cooking from her days at Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar. And hence I had high hopes for Dirty Bird To-Go, her new fried chicken take-out restaurant. I’m sure you know where this is going (and yes, this has not been a great month for me, gastronomically speaking)…. Dirty Bird failed to deliver on its expectations. The storefront is cute, but cosmetics alone will not suffice. Allison is a talented chef, but this venture seems to rely more heavily on her name than on her talents. She and her husband, Slade Rushing, are part owners of the store. The restaurant has a simple concept — high quality, carefully prepared fast food — that if executed correctly should take off, bring high profits and be relatively low maintenance. But the equation is not working out right now for Dirty Bird.
On 14th Street, there’s already a KFC and a Popeyes, so if you want to succeed, your chicken and sides need to not only boast of using organic seasonal ingredients, but they should also taste better than the other alternatives. I found the fried chicken to be rather tasteless. I don’t doubt that the quality of the chicken is better than the fast food joints, but the outside was not crispy enough and the chicken, while juicy, lacked flavor. I’ve heard complaints about the batter of the chicken being too thick, which was completely contrary to my experience — the layer of batter was too thin on my chicken. This begs me to believe that Dirty Bird has some consistency issues; I found that the chicken fingers were GIGANTIC. Ali’s chopped salad, which sounded wonderful, was a waste of $8.99, as it didn’t wow or even appease my taste buds. The cornbread was literally and figuratively flat, but I did really enjoy my napa cabbage cole slaw. The problem is, I’m not going to go back just for the slaw. There’s gotta be more draw than that.
Not to mention that the management, or lack thereof, at the store is alarming. The staff members didn’t seem like they wanted to be there, looking bored out of their minds, and that vibe made it kind of hard for me to get really excited about the food. It’s a small operation, and the menu couldn’t be simpler. I feel like with the proper training, this shop could run super efficiently. There are only so many options: fried chicken, rotisserie chicken or chicken fingers, some sides, salad, sweets and drinks. I think the other two chicken fast food competitors may have more extensive menus, so it’s hard to understand why the staff didn’t seem to have its act together.
Honestly, I am rooting for Dirty Bird. There’s a lot of work to be done, but I think that most of it can be figured out. Most importantly, Dirty Bird needs to show on all fronts that it really cares about what it’s producing. Right now, the act is not convincing.
Posted in American , Chicken , West Village
Spaghetti Carbonara "3p Classic"
by Celia Cheng
August 21st, 2005
CRISPO
240 W 14th St
(7th & 8th Ave)
212-229-1818
The “3p” in Crispo’s carbonara stands for pancetta, smoked pancetta and proscuitto. It all sounds rather complicated and fancy, but it really works. In addition to the three types of pork, there is also frisée mixed in to give the spaghetti an added texture and it’s a welcome addition to the mix. Finally, there’s a poached egg on top, which when mixed in, just gives it that added something that completes the dish.
Crispo is a relatively large restaurant, with some outdoor seating in the front, facing 14th street, then a main dining room as well as garden seating in the back. The first time I visited I found the prices a bit daunting for a neighborhood restaurant, but after my second visit I’ve decided that it’s entirely worth it and that this really isn’t just a neighborhood restaurant but a destination. The food really is good and there’s pride taken in the preparation and serving of the food.
In addition to the carbonara, I tried the lamb Milanese, and proscuitto with creamy polenta and smoked mozzarella, both of which were also delicious and not overly heavy.
The carbonara is definitely one of those dishes I crave and will travel for, but Crispo’s menu does offer a variety of other dishes that I’m also excited about trying.
Posted in Italian , Pasta , West Village
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