Mezze Sampling Plate
by Celia Cheng
January 31st, 2008
BODRUM
584 Amsterdam Ave
(88th & 89th St)
212-799-2806
It’s funny how sometimes the simplest things can trip you up. I have been trying to decide on a craving for Bodrum but have been at a loss for much too long. I was stumped not because there’s nothing on the menu for me to choose from, but, on the contrary, every dish I tried at Bodrum, from starter to dessert — even the homemade bread — was a contender for my favorite craving. It’s all so good! It took me a while, but then I realized the obvious craving choice at a restaurant that has so much to offer — the mezze sampling plate!
Bodrum is a new Turkish restaurant that opened last July on the UWS. It serves homestyle Turkish cooking as well as some contemporary Mediterranean and North African dishes. The eatery, which seats forty (with outdoor accommodations when weather permits), has a casual but elegant feel. Upon entering the restaurant, you are faced with a wood-burning brick oven that warms this intimate, comfortable space. Comfort is found both in the atmosphere as well as the downright good homestyle cooking. The menu is not extensive but the quality of the food is consistently high.
Eating out as often as I do, my favorite meals are homestyle. Homestyle cooking is not to be confused with sloppy comfort food. Bodrum’s cuisine, as well as service, is refined and professional. Like its Turkish sister restaurant, Pasha, Bodrum also offers a fine-dining experience but in a warmer, more relaxing setting.
The shepherd salad is a good example of how Bodrum pays attention to detail. This is a simple and traditional Turkish salad, but too often restaurants serve it with oversized chunks of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and bell peppers. At Bodrum, the ingredients are finely diced, and carefully seasoned with the right balance of olive oil and lemon.
The mezze are all delicious and the mezze sampling plate for only $14 is the way to go. This includes a sigara borek (French feta and chopped parsley rolled like a cigar, as the name suggests, in crispy Turkish filo); a b’stila djej (Moroccan filo pastry stuffed with spiced chicken, almonds, chopped fresh herbs and cinnamon) — a true knock out!; hummus; babaghanoush; Turkish patlican (lightly spiced cubes of eggplant cooked with tomato, peppers, garlic and fresh herbs); and lebne (strained yogurt cheese mixed with walnuts, dill and purslane). And of course one of the best things about eating mezze is the accompanying bread. The homemade Turkish pide bread topped with sesame seeds is soft and fluffy, making it easier to soak up all the dips. I could just have pide with mezze for a meal, but there’s much more to enjoy at Bodrum, so don’t stop there.
Whenever I spy manti (ground lamb and fresh herb dumplings with garlic yogurt sauce) on a menu, I am wont to try it. The pieces of manti at Bodrum are unusually large, so they are more similar to ravioli than the normally petit dumplings. However, the size here does not compromise the taste. The manti is fresh and the garlic yogurt sauce a wonderful complement.
For the entrée, the special, lamb kebab with rice and steamed vegetables, was scrumptious. The copiously sized pieces of lamb on the skewer were juicy and tender, and the mixed vegetables were julienned, not large chunks that seem like an afterthought. The Moroccan fish tagine, with spiced red snapper and preserved lemon, olives and vegetables, was also a well balanced mix of flavors that was saucy and zesty.
The most interesting dessert on the menu is the ginger and Turkish fig ice cream, and it was delightful! Fig is one of those fruits that seems neutral in flavor but exquisite when fresh. It balances out the zingy ginger without harnessing its distinctive flavor. It’s an original and refreshing way to wind down dinner.
Bodrum was such a wonderful surprise! It’s my new favorite Turkish restaurant in the City because of its sensational homestyle cooking. Though I may have to travel ninety blocks uptown to get there, it’s worth the distance!
Posted in Appetizer , Turkish , UWS
Calotte de Boeuf Grillée
by Celia Cheng
February 8th, 2007
PER SE
10 Columbus Circle
@ 60th St, 4rd Floor
212-823-9335
In terms of monumental dining experiences, to visit a Thomas Keller restaurant ranks at the top of culinary excursions in the US. I find it difficult then to share this experience because I presume the expectations for describing it are as high as my expectations were going into this meal. I’m not sure how to do justice to such a lavish adventure so I’ve decided to just break things down. I’m sure that we will be featuring Per Se again, so think of this as an introduction, as it was for me.
Per Se serves the same menu at lunch and dinner, changing daily. There are two prix-fixe nine-course menus to choose from: Chef’s Tasting Menu and Tasting of Vegetables. Both are set at $250. I was extremely enticed by the vegetable tasting menu, particularly since it was lunch and I was leaning towards a lighter repast, but for my first meal at Per Se, I opted for the full experience with the Chef’s Tasting Menu. I’ve posted the menu below. For any course that required a choice, I have highlighted the one I chose.
Chef’s Tasting Menu — February 8, 2007
“OYSTER AND PEARLS”
“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
___
SALAD OF HAWAIIAN HEARTS OF PEACH PALM
Satur Farm’s Carrots, Medjool Date and Candied Marcona Almonds with Cilantro-Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil
or
“TERRINE” OF HUDSON VALLEY MOULARD DUCK “FOIE GRAS”
Black Winter Truffles, Frisée Lettuce and Balsamic Reduction with Toasted “Brioche”
($40 supplement)
___
SAUTÉED MEDITERRANEAN ROUGET
“Confit” of Violet Artichokes and “Brandade Barbajuan” with “Sauce Rouille”
___
BUTTER POACHED NOVA SCOTIA LOBSTER
“Topinambours en Trois Facons,” Meyer Lemon “Suprêmes,” Young Sorrel and Meyer Lemon “Mousseline”
___
SIRLOIN OF HALLOW FARM’S RABBIT
Wrapped in Applewood Smoked Bacon, “Petite” Onions and Forest Mushrooms “à la Grecque” with Rabbit “Jus”
or
“FRICASSÉE DE CERVELLE DE VEAU”
“Gnocchi Parisienne,” California Crosnes and Wilted “Roquette” with Black Winter Truffle-Veal Sauce
___
SNAKE RIVER FARM’S “CALOTTE DE BOEUF GRILLÉE”
Crispy Bone Marrow, Toasted Farro, Braised Swiss Chard Leaves and “Sauce Bordelaise”
___
“WINNEMERE”
Per Se Coleslaw, Red Wine Poached Gala Apple, Garden Mâche and Blis Maple Syrup
___
GUAVA SORBET
“Crème de Yaourt Frais,” Black Licorice “Dust” and Pomegranate “Nuage”
___
“TENTATION AU CHOCOLAT, NOISETTE ET LAIT”
Milk Chocolate “Crémeux” and Hazelnut “Streusel” with Condensed Milk Sorbet, “Pain au Lait” Sauce and Sweetened Salty Hazelnuts
___
“Mignardises”
The food was magnificent! Particularly the calotte de boeuf grillée, which I had heard raving reviews about before. As explained to my dining companion and I, “calotte” is the cut of beef wrapped around the rib eye that butchers usually discard. Thomas Keller decided to make use of the cut of meat that’s usually disposed of and we are so glad he did! The calotte is marbled and tender, a juicy cut of meat in and of itself but in the sauce Bordelaise it was so scrumptious that I devoured the entire dish even though I had only picked at some of previous dishes because I was so full. I’m a bone marrow fanatic and found this little piece of lightly deep-fried tempura-like marrow so elegant! The farro and Swiss chard were so beautifully paired in this dish that it was sheer perfection!
The fricassée de cervelle de veau, or sautéed beef brains, was another winner. The dish is extremely rich, what with the gnocchi, the black winter truffle-veal sauce and the brains themselves, but oh-so-good! The crosnes, small white tubers from a plant of the mint family — they look like strings of connected pearls and taste like Jerusalem artichokes – was a delightful crunchy surprise in contrast to the softness and chewiness of both the brains and the gnocchi.
The butter poached Nova Scotia lobster was also outstanding. Once again, Thomas Keller’s decision to pair succulent lobster meat with the refreshing tastes of Meyer lemon and the smokier and richer fullness of sorrels was mind blowing.
My favorite dessert was the guava sorbet. I always attribute my attachment to guava to my childhood, eating the fruit and drinking the juice both in Taiwan and Hawaii. I’m not a fan of licorice, but the licorice dust was subtle in flavor and the texture gave it the effect of finely pulverized Oreos, without the sweetness. The crème of yogurt and strawberry and the pomegranate cloud — a poetic interpretation of foam — was beyond just right. I often find desserts to be too heavy and rich, and am so delighted when there’s something as original in thought and flavor as this work of art.
The Chef’s Tasting Menu was amazing! And the cost of the meal is well worth it. You are right if you feel a “but…” coming on. But… with wine pairings and other extraneous add-ons, the tab came to about $600 per person, including service. Since I am just breaking things down, I’ll be concise. The three main factors for judging a dining experience usually are: food, atmosphere and service. Per Se has mastered the first category hands down. In fact, the food is so good that it will make up for what it lacks in the second two categories. And when I say lacks, I mean in relation to its price point. Even though the interior of the restaurant is pleasant and there is a gorgeous view of Central Park, I hate feeling like I’m eating in Vegas mall environment. Going to the Time Warner Center for a three star meal doesn’t feel luxurious but actually cheapens the experience. The service is professional but seems too rehearsed and insincere. It’s a routine that they have down pat, but while all servers are pleasant, I found them to be too robotic and lacked warmth and attention to detail. At the end of the meal, a tour of the kitchen is part of the show-and-tell. But simple requests like a copy of the menu were forgotten, and even when requested by phone there was no follow-up. While I found the meal memorable, the service made me feel like us diners were rather forgettable and inconsequential. I am looking forward to future meals at Per Se but I do hope that their hospitality will have improved by then.
Posted in American , Beef , French , UWS
website • menu • reservation • map • tell-a-friend • print • comment
Chicken Soup w/ Herb Dumplings
by Celia Cheng
June 14th, 2006
BOUCHON BAKERY
10 Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor
@ 60th St
212-823-9366
Bouchon Bakery seems like an answer to our prayers: Thomas Keller’s causal café at plebeian fares, if you consider $11.25 for chicken soup “plebeian.” This is where I struggle. The chicken soup is excellent, a top in this city, and hence, the quality-price ratio for this dish is balanced. But on the whole, Bouchon Bakery is overpriced. I’m not saying that I would expect any differently, since it’s Thomas Keller and since it’s in the atrocious Time Warner Center. All I’m saying is that it’s not going to be my neighborhood mall hangout. Wait a minute… I don’t hang out at malls.
The chicken soup is amazing! The brown broth, which tastes richer than most chicken broths, reminds me of a nice beef consommé. The free range chicken should be the example to all of how chicken should be cooked, taste and feel. Most of the time, my issue with chicken is the dried out texture it gets when it’s even mildly overcooked. This one is not stringy, chewy or rubbery but just right. The vegetables were your staple carrots, celery and onions. There is also a distinct anise flavor, so I presume that fennel was added as a part of the vegetable mixture. Strangely, the dumplings were my least favorite part of the dish, probably because I felt like they were too heavy for such a pure soup. They did add a buttery flavor, but I found them unnecessary. At the same time, I am mindful that people have different palates, and I can see how the dumplings could liven dish for some.
You can’t eat at Bouchon Bakery and not try the desserts. I had the TKO — Thomas Keller Oreo — two flower-shaped chocolate cookies sandwiching a white chocolate ganache filling, accompanied by a single scoop of vanilla ice cream. While this is listed under “cookies,” it’s really a complete serving of dessert. It’s rather large and should be savored over teatime, rather than as a quick relief to satiate a temporary sweet tooth. And at $5.75, it’s hard to call it just a cookie. The cookie was yummy, but half way through, I got a little bored. It probably would have been ideal to share it with someone. The vanilla ice cream was too sweet. But overall, I really dug the concept. There is also a Nutter Butter version, which I hear is a true killer for peanut butter cookie fans.
As much as I dislike the Time Warner Center, I must say that sitting at the café on the third floor overlooking the atrium and entrance of the mall on a leisurely afternoon wasn’t so bad. If you are in the Columbus Circle area or at the mall, then at least you have a very good option for a light fare or snack. My experience left me feeling very clean, healthy and happy — that’s not something you say after leaving most malls, not even the fancy ones.
Posted in American , Chicken , Soup , UWS
menu • map • tell-a-friend • print • comment
Eggs Benedict
by Celia Cheng
July 12th, 2005
ASIATE
80 Columbus Circle
@ 60th St
212-805-8881
map
On the 35th floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Asiate offers a great view of Central Park and Manhattan’s cityscape. Unfortunately, the food is not as stunning as the view. Brunch is a $48 prix fixe menu that includes a starter tasting bento box, then a choice of two main entrées, followed by a dessert sampler.
Asiate serves a fusion of French and Japanese inspired cuisine and while chef Nori Sugie* has trained with some of the top chefs in the world, including my all time favorite, Tetsuya Wakuda (chef/owner of Tetsuya’s in Sydney, Australia), the meal I ate today was rather disappointing. The concept of offering a variety of different foods is wonderful, but the fusion of East meets West fails here because the balance is not met and ultimately it is quantity that wins over delicacy. The Japanese are masters at offering a little taste of everything, just enough so that you can savor what you are eating. At Asiate, the portion sizes are too large to be considered delicate, and the food itself just isn’t.
I came to Asiate to try the eggs benedict, which was entirely unspectacular. The toasted white bread on which the poached egg and ham were served was the wrong texture, as it was too fluffy. Even the truffle salsa on the eggs benedict couldn’t save the dish. The raspberry sorbet palate cleanser that came between the starter tasting bento box and main entrées was oddly textured and way too sweet to be a cleanser. Dessert was also nothing to write home about, so I won’t. The only thing I recall that I liked was the lobster tempura that was part of the starter sampler. The tempura batter was crisp and not overly greasy and the lobster tender.
For a Mandarin Oriental Hotel restaurant, the price of the meal is not considered outrageous, but I would rather they reduce the variety by two or three items and instead increase the quality of the menu so that Asiate can actually be the restaurant it purports to be and not just a “hotel restaurant.”
- Nori Sugie was not the chef for brunch today
Posted in Asian , Brunch , UWS
