BLT
by Celia Cheng
September 14th, 2007
UNION SQUARE CAFE
21 E 16th St
(5th Ave & Union Square West)
212-243-4020
Friday lunches at Union Square Café are becoming a habit. It was so crowded at the bar at 1:30 this afternoon that my sister and I had to settle for a table. Everyone was enjoying a leisurely lunch, which is exactly why regulars frequent this classic New York institution, known for it’s sophisticated but laid back atmosphere, impeccable service, and top notch food.
USC’s clientele says a lot about the place; customers tend to the older side, as many have been regulars for more than 20 years. And it’s the consistent service and precise focus on hospitality that have earned USC this loyal following. There are other restaurants whose food I might prefer over USC’s — though, naturally, it’s quite good — but at the end of the day, I would rather come here because it is just so inviting and comfortable. The space is bright and cheerful, as is the staff, but never imposing or annoying, and the jazz playing in the background is relaxing but also adds a pleasant buzz to the bustling restaurant. They don’t call Danny Meyer Mr. Hospitality for nothing. His restaurants truly raise the bar for service in the City. From the maître d’ and the bar tender to the wait staff, everyone is professional, pleasant and patient. I think every restaurant should strive to achieve A+’s on the 3-P’s.
Right now, while tomatoes are still in season, there’s a BLT on the lunch menu. Served on grilled Tom Cat sourdough, with Niman Ranch bacon, Greenmarket tomatoes and arugula, with a side of new potato salad, it was the near perfect lunch. And the side order of Greenmarket sweet corn and a glass of the Cru Beaujolais, Juliénas 2005 Domaine Marius Sangouard, Trenel, made it the perfect lunch.
The sandwich is simple, but the fresh, clean ingredients really make it standout. The BLT is my favorite sandwich of all time because of its simplicity and balance: bacon — all the flavor one could need — with the healthy complements of tomato and greens, sandwiched between mayonnaise-coated bread — what could be better?! The new potato salad is a great side with crunchy pieces of celery and a mildly sour vinegar flavor to counter the saltiness of the bacon. The fresh corn sautéed in butter was yet another classic but savory addition to the meal. The BLT, potato salad and corn were like three pieces of a puzzle that fit together seamlessly. As we slowly move into fall, this ideal summer meal helped prolong the joys of the season. And with the Greenmarket right around the corner, it was reassuring to see where much of the produce came from.
From a very young age, I was encouraged by my father to go into hotel management. Our family is keen on good service and attentiveness. While I did not choose a career in that area, I do appreciate those in the service industry, particularly restaurants, committed to mastering all the little details. Danny Meyer runs his restaurants like hotels, with customer satisfaction as his top priority. Too many restaurants in New York focus on how they want to project their image, hiring staff for the way they look and the attitudes they portray — that may be trend-setting, but it won’t draw loyalty, and definitely not for twenty plus years. The formula seems quite simple to me, and yet, sadly, few have yet to master or even come close to the dignified easy charm of this best-in-class restaurant, Union Square Café.
Posted in American , Lunch , Sandwich , Union Square
website • menu • reservation • map • tell-a-friend • print • comments (1)
Meatball Parmigiana Sandwich
by Celia Cheng
May 17th, 2007
FRANKIES SPUNTINO
17 Clinton St
(Houston & Stanton St)
212-253-2303
It’s been a while since I deliberately went out for an evening of restaurant crawling, but what else can you do when you really crave one thing but also want to try something else?! I don’t believe in choosing, and tend to end up eating two or three meals. It’s particularly fun when you can do this with girlfriends of the same mind set, so Jennie, Monica and I embarked on an evening of four rounds on Clinton Street. The intent was to try Frankies Spuntino, but the small twenty-plus seat restaurant doesn’t take reservations. While waiting, we’d start the evening with a light meal at Falai, one of our favorites, and then move on to Frankies when it was ready for us. We were having so much fun at Falai that we ate and drank more than planned, and since a forty-minute wait at Frankies turned into a two-hour wait, we stopped in at Cube 63 — across the street from Falai — with a bottle of sake and had some seared white tuna and volcano rolls in the interim. We finally started our main meal at Frankies at 10pm before returning to Falai at 11pm for dessert.
Normally, this would be the part where I start ranting about a two-hour wait for a simple eatery with a lot of attitude. Maybe it was the amount of alcohol I had consumed by that point, but I wasn’t really mad. And I enjoyed the food so much I didn’t mind, but of course, this was an unusual evening, and I wouldn’t have been so forgiving had I not already had two meals.
This was my first visit to Frankies, and I’ve never been to the original in Carroll Gardens. Frankies serves rustically straightforward Italian-American fare at extremely reasonable prices. Everything we had, from the fennel, celery root and parsley salad with red onions and lemon, the cremini mushroom and truffle oil crostini to the meatball parmigiana sandwich reflected the simplicity yet downright goodness in Frankies’ home-style cooking. There are no tricks up its sleeves but the flavors speak for themselves. I was particularly enamored with the side order of cauliflower. Roasted in olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper, the natural process caramelizes the vegetable slightly so there is a tinge of sweetness, but it’s entirely refreshing and addictive in a way the artificial addition of sugar could never produce. The meatball parm sandwich, as all the sandwiches on the menu, is served on the delicious rosemary bread from Sullivan Bakery.
(The article continues below in Falai’s Panna Cotta post.)
Posted in American , Italian , LES , Meat , Sandwich
Pambazo
by Celia Cheng
November 6th, 2005
BONITA
338 Bedford Ave
(S 2nd & S 3rd St)
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718-384-9500
I have not been this excited about food since I first moved back to New York five years ago. I remember the wonderful sensation I felt each time I was introduced to a great dining experience at restaurants like Lupa, Omen, Blue Ribbon Bakery and more, all thanks to my very good food-loving friend, Adria. Lately, it’s been harder to find places that are actually so authentically and honestly good, as well as not a scene, and above all not just a PR stunt.
Bonita effectively takes me back five years. It’s laid back. The staff — and even the customers — are fun and friendly. And it’s not just a neighborhood restaurant nor even just a Mexican joint, but in the end an awesome indulgence in the vibrant taste of Mexico! I know I’m beginning to sound like I’m five, but how can I put this… I love Bonita!
If you are paying attention then you’ll notice that this was my second brunch in the same day, but when the food is yummy, who’s counting? I was actually sitting at the bar just having a drink, but as I watched the cooks prepare a pambazo in front of me in their open kitchen, I knew I had to have one of those too.
Pambazo is grilled, spicy house-ground chorizo sausage and potato and sandwiched in a bun that is dredged in Guajillo pepper sauce and grilled, with avocado and sour cream. I don’t know about you, but my mouth is watering as I write this piece. Call me a pig, but I couldn’t devour that large sandwich quickly enough.
I was enjoying my horchata while waiting for my order and watching more dishes being prepared, which was a real pleasure. Horchata is a rice drink made with rice, almonds, cloves, and cinnamon, all soaked together overnight and then ground and strained in cheesecloth. It’s very light with the subtle scent and taste of the grains, nuts and spices.
Of course, I’ve been back to Bonita to try other dishes on their menu, and in particular I would highly recommend the lime soup and fish tacos. I’ll keep going not only to try more things but also just to be in a restaurant that is truly relaxing, unpretentious and good for the soul.
Posted in Mexican , Sandwich , Williamsburg
menu • map • tell-a-friend • print • comment
Classic Egg Salad Sandwich
by Celia Cheng
August 9th, 2005
OLIVE’S
120 Prince St
(Wooster & Greene St)
212-941-0111
This egg salad sandwich is the special sandwich available only every second Tuesday of the month. How very clever of Olive’s. Just once a month makes me crave it all the more! And while it’s called a classic egg salad sandwich, the combination of the roasted red onion’s caramel taste and the pungent flavor of the watercress make it unusual and delicious.
Although egg salad is one of those basic comfort foods that I do crave, I rarely order it in a deli or diner because they can be extremely bland and unfresh. Olive’s egg salad is a delightful surprise as it is original in taste and very fresh.
For such a small take-out place, I am always amazed at the consistency of quality and how yummy everything is. The menu is never boring given the variety of daily specials, and the fresh ingredients and outstanding recipes really make this institution a landmark in SoHo.
I had a half sandwich and soup for lunch today and by the time I finished that half sandwich I was already craving another.
Posted in American , Sandwich , SoHo
Roast Beef Sandwich
by Celia Cheng
April 3rd, 2005
ROLL-N-ROASTER [CLOSED]
64 3rd Ave
(10th & 11th St)
212-614-2333
Okay, 12am on Monday morning, I’m craving MEAT! I can’t help it. I think about going to McDonald’s but realize I only like the filet-o-fish, and I need meat. Two friends tell me to go for Roll-n-Roaster even though they know I am not a huge fan. So I decide to give it another try. It’s midnight! I need to satiate this craving. I am given specific instructions to get the Roast Beef rare, with cheese and grilled onions. I also order an orange juice, which is strangely one of the best in town. Now, my problem with Roll-n-Roaster is that each time I get it, I have a couple of bites and then I have to stop. I feel gross. It’s heavy and monotonous. The Roast beef is good, but somehow the combination of the cheese wiz and the roll it sits on just drags me down and I always stop about half way through, thoroughly disgusted with myself. Is it just me?! I love roast beef and I like the concept of Roll-n-Roaster. It is much better than chains like McDonald’s or Taco Bell. The staff is fun loving, but sadly, I just can’t seem to get into it.
Posted in American , East Village , Sandwich
map • tell-a-friend • print • comment
