Pinci con Seppie (pasta, cuttlefish, razor clams)
by Celia Cheng
May 27th, 2008
BAR MILANO
323 3rd Ave
@ 24th St
212-683-3035
There are many things to love about Bar Milano, the latest and most ambitious restaurant from the Denton brothers (Jason and Joe of ’ino and ’inoteca) and their partner chefs from ’inoteca and Lupa. For starters, it’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Secondly, the atmosphere is stupendous; relaxed but exquisite, sultry but bright, it’s the perfect mix. The service is professional, and the food is good. Bar Milano is more upscale than Denton’s other venture (and a personal favorite of mine), Lupa, whose food and atmosphere seem almost homestlyle in comparison. And the prices reflect as much.
To avoid the dinner crowds, I’m a fan of lunch at Bar Milano; the menu is the same while I can easily find a seat in the austere dining room or at the 26-seat bar with banquettes and an open view of the corner of 24th Street and 3rd Avenue. Sitting at the bar, listening to the jazz in the background and chatting with the bartender seem like the quintessential New York experience. With a glass of wine in hand and my meal served, I am in a state of bliss.
On my first visit, I tried the insalata di bagna cauda (early spring vegetables tossed in a garlic and anchovy dressing), trota in carpione (pickled trout, beets and horseradish), risotto di aragosta (carnaroli rice with lobster and ramps), and trota con montecato (trout, potatoes and chard). All dishes are arranged elegantly and the flavors subtle. The early spring vegetables, or what I call baby vegetables, were delicate, and though I expected the garlic and anchovy dressing to be heavy in flavor, it was so subtle that I almost forgot it contained these powerhouse ingredients. The tangy flavor of the pickled trout was balanced by the horseradish, and then reiterated by the beets. And the risotto, prepared with longer grain carnaroli rice (rather than aborio grains), was perfectly creamy yet still al dente. The small lobster pieces were tasty and rich without being heavy. But the highlight of this meal was the trout entrée; pan-seared trout paired with smoked trout mashed potatoes and a side of chard dressed with Meyer lemon was just delicious.
All that said, it was only on my second visit that I really fell in love with Bar Milano. I had been dying to try their pastas, so I ordered the homemade pinci with razor clams and cuttlefish and a side of Italian greens. The hand-rolled pinci is rounder and thicker than spaghetti. The consistency matches well with the chewy pieces of cuttlefish and the slices of razor clams (that almost disappear into this dish). Whole, peeled cherry tomatoes add zest and freshness. The flavors bursting in my mouth, I was blown away at first bite!
The only downside was that my solitary lunch of pasta, side of greens and a lovely glass of the NV Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut totaled $57 with tax and tip. Though lunch was relaxing, the bill was not. Since opening, Bar Milano has received much criticism for its pricing, but that’s unlikely to change. “If you build it, they will come.”
Posted in Italian , Murray Hill , Pasta , Seafood
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Fiddlehead Fern Ravioli
by Celia Cheng
June 26th, 2007
PERILLA
9 Jones St
(Bleecker & W 4th St)
212-929-6868
You will have to excuse me, but it’s been a rough month. My worst nightmare has come back to haunt me after years of dormancy; I had an allergic reaction to something I ate! I’ll spare you the gruesome details, but it’s put me out of commission for ten days: can’t drink alcohol, staying away from seafood, fruits and nuts, and worst of all, my taste buds have gone psychedelic.
However, it was an extremely busy month with lots of tastings before the fateful meal that did me in, so I’m going to summarize some highlights and nadirs of this month’s NYC food adventures.
Contrary to my general style of saving the best for last, let’s start out with the surprising hit of the month, Perilla. Chef Harold Dieterle, being a Top Chef winner, really had to prove himself to me. Formerly a sous chef at The Harrison, he had to be talented, but you have to question what type of person wants to appear on Top Chef. Forgive me, but I don’t believe in reality television shows. With Perilla, Dieterle is not merely coasting on his new celebrity status, he’s chosen to open a small neighborhood joint, taking the philosophy of his former employers Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abrams (and much of their staff), and creating the type of food he wants, with lots of Asian influences. And it’s not heavy-handed either; it’s simply pleasant. The entrée fiddlehead fern ravioli with fava beans, morels and truffle butter was so mouth-wateringly delicious that when I had finished, I wanted to start the meal all over again. The atmosphere clearly strives to recreate the success of The Red Cat, but Perilla strikes me as trendier and I don’t quite connect with it in the same way. Still, it’s very new, the food is delicious and the service personable, so I have high hopes that it will become a lasting neighborhood hangout.
I also had high hopes for the oyster po’ boy at Cookshop. Cynthia had been raving about it, so we went for a lunch tasting one day. Conceptually, the po’ boy sounded amazing, with a side of potato salad and slice of pickle, but not a single ingredient really stood out, so, from a flavor standpoint, the oyster po’ boy (and potato salad) fell flat. Sorry, I really wanted to love it.
Mercat was another new try for me. From calling to get a reservation to leaving the restaurant, there was plenty of frustration due to disorganization and newbies on the job, but since they are a new kid on the block, I’m going to be nice, for now. The patatas bravas was a total knock out and has been added to the Craving section, so let’s move on.
After a little shopping at Jeffrey, it only made sense to stop in at Fatty Crab for a snack. I know I’ve praised Fatty Crab plenty of times, but it just makes me happy. Another addition to Craving this month is Fatty Crab’s pork buns. Just stellar! The watermelon bellini was the perfect fizzy antidote to the rich flavors of the juicy pork buns. A side of steamed baby bok choi with oyster sauce, olive oil, and yuzu juice was so simple but perfectly completed my Saturday afternoon craving. Great snack choice any time of day!
With all the press dollars spent on announcing the revamping of Suba’s menu by Boqueria’s Seamus Mullen (despite his brief hiatus due to surgery for a bout with rheumatoid arthritis), I was silly enough to take the bate. The last time I felt so gross in a LES meat market was at Stanton Social, but at least the food made it worthwhile. I couldn’t wait to resurface from the fake grotto at Suba and wash off the film of slime I felt all over me. The food is fine, but not spectacular. There’s no competition between Suba and Boqueria.
With New York Magazine’s recent study of street food, Cartography, I decided to try Carnegie John’s (street cart on 56th St and 7th Ave) cheeseburger, as I just couldn’t wait in the long line for my usual at Tony’s (street vendor on 62nd St and Madison Ave). Since John is Tony’s disciple, I figured he was worth trying and may be just as good as Tony’s. After the taste test, I decided that I’m a purist of sorts and still favor Tony’s cheeseburger, which I find to be juicier and more flavorful. But something that struck me as odd in the New York article was the comparison of John’s cheeseburger to Burger Joint’s. That is like comparing apples and oranges. You can compare Tony’s and John’s burgers because stylistically they are the same street vendor food, and you can compare Burger Joint and Shake Shack’s burgers accordingly, but the John and Burger Joint comparison doesn’t fly. I know I am splitting hairs here. I will probably get lambasted by millions of burger fans out there because everyone feels very strongly about their personal preferences. So I rest my case.
Down in the East Village, I didn’t even realize that Mamoun’s had opened a branch on St. Mark’s between 2nd and 3rd Avenues about six months ago. Is it just me, or has the novelty of Mamoun’s worn off? I won’t argue that it’s not cheap, but there has to be better falafal out there. Anyone?!
Continuing east, the newest ramen shop, Setagaya, a Japanese chain, opened on 1st Avenue between St. Mark’s Place and 9th Street. I mean, it was supposed to open, but due to health inspections, the opening was delayed. I found out when I stopped by on “opening night” and there was a sign posted in Japanese only about the delay. Thankfully I could read it. It seems that they are really making a point of being “authentically Japanese.” There’s a large LCD display on the wall playing Japanese satellite television food shows. Can’t wait to try it.
Finally, for a little Indian fix, Cynthia and I tried out the $6 lunch buffet at Tiffin Wallah in Curry Hill on 28th Street between Park and Lexington Avenues. Is this for real? Southern Indian cuisine (vegetarian), including a dahl, a couple of varieties of curries, a couple different options for rice and Indian pancakes (which I would avoid as I found them dried out and rubbery), and fruit salad, all you can eat for just six bucks?! It’s not amazing, but it’s extremely decent and a great value, so no complaints! Understandably, Tiffin Wallah tries to cover costs through sales of drinks that must be ordered separately. The interior is nice and clean and overall very pleasant. If I lived or worked in the area, I’d be a fixture there at lunch. Good news is that delivery service starts soon! Though the $6 special isn’t available for delivery, the regular menu is extremely reasonable, too.
Let’s end on a sweet note with the Maury Rubin’s second Birdbath store in the West Village. It definitely stands out more than the original East Village shop that wanted to be known for its green concept rather than for its affiliation with City Bakery. This new Birdbath, however, is taking advantage of its branding and association with City Bakery. The shop is cute and blends in well with its West Village environment, aiming to become not just the quintessential neighborhood bakery, but more specifically the neighborhood “green” bakery. The bear claw with apricot filling is a signature treat and very yummy, but not everything is decadent in the way City Bakery desserts are. There are some vegan treats, and vegan is a dirty word in my vocabulary so I steered clear of those items. But whether you go vegan or indulge, the West Village Birdbath is a worthwhile stop that can easily become routine.
Well, there you have it: June in a nutshell, pre-disaster. Hopefully, God will take pity on me rather than punishing me for being a glutton. I really want my taste buds back!
Posted in American , Pasta , Veggies , West Village
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Panna Cotta
by Celia Cheng
May 17th, 2007
FALAI
68 Clinton St
(Stanton & Rivington St)
212-253-1960
(This article is the continuation of a larger piece that starts in the above Frankies Spuntino’s Meatball Parmigiana Sandwich post.)
In contrast, our starting and ending meal at Falai was on the opposite spectrum of refined and studied Italian cuisine. Falai has recently switched to its spring menu and is currently serving crudo of nairagi — a.k.a. marlin or a’u — from Hawaii. Light and extremely fresh. The gnudi — doughless ricotta cheese and baby spinach dumplings — were voted best in town by New York Magazine for a reason. They are larger in size than I had expected, little domes sitting like small scoops of ice cream in a butter, cream and sage sauce. As a pasta dish, it is incredibly light, despite the cheese, cream and butter, but I had filled up on several pieces of homemade black-cabbage rolls and onion rolls.
For dessert, Falai’s deconstructed version of tiramisu made me think. Unlike the oversaturated and traditional tiramisu with ladyfingers, espresso and other ingredients mixed and layered, Falai’s version has the ingredients placed separately on the plate, with espresso then poured over them, so you can play with the proportions as you please. It’s rather unconventional, and I was a bit apprehensive at first, but then realized that this is much more amusing and thought provoking. However, my pick for dessert is the panna cotta with dried strawberries in orzata — an Italian almond syrup — foam and cocoa butter. It was delicate, precious and stellar!
The evening reminded me why the Lower East Side and particularly Clinton Street stands apart from other areas from a culinary standpoint — where else in the City can you have such a fun and diverse culinary extravaganza within a one-block radius? With more time and a larger appetite I could have hit many more restaurants on the street or in the area, but even the glutton in me knows that it’s best we leave that for another time.
Posted in Dessert , Italian , LES , Pasta
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Orecchiette Pork Ragu
by Celia Cheng
March 7th, 2007
EMPLOYEES ONLY
510 Hudson St
(10th & Christopher St)
212-242-3021
I first went to Employees Only on a Sunday for brunch. It was empty and charming. We sat in the outdoor covered terrace and only two other tables were occupied. I wasn’t quite sure why we had been so lucky to have this little haven to ourselves. I was even more confused when the food arrived and it was scrumptious. Was this a secret that no one knew about? My friend Julia and I shared the EO burger and poached eggs with cherry tomato bruschetta, and though tomatoes are out of season, both dishes were still plenty delicious. The burger was a pleasant surprise. The potato pancake on the patty was an ingenious substitute for fries. Tastier, too!
I returned a second time, for dinner, after my sister tipped me off about the to-die-for orecchiete pork ragu. That’s when I realized why the restaurant is so empty at brunch. It’s known more as a bar, and the menu reflects this. It has only a page or two of food and the rest is drinks. Yet the food is so good!
The chestnut and potato dumplings are delicious. I thought the chestnut would be pureed and mixed with the potato filling inside the dumplings, but there are actual chunks of chestnut that accompany the dumplings. Mushrooms and truffle oil complete the taste profile for this total comfort-food dish.
The orecchiette pork ragu left me speechless. Talk about comfort, it really hit a home run. Slow-cooked pork shoulder, carrots, onions, tomatoes and a good dose of red wine did the trick. The meat is so tender it falls apart, the large chucks of tomatoes are juicy and the little ears of pasta and gooey melted cheese make the perfect assemblage. We also peeked over at our neighbor’s pasta, the spaghetti pomodoro, which looked sublime. I love being in a restaurant where each dish turns my head.
The grape-and-arugula salad with pecorino and toasted pine nuts was perfectly pleasant. The only disappointment was the side of Brussel sprouts with pancetta. It was overly greasy. Also, the pancetta was actually bacon, so the texture of the thin, large pieces of crispy meat didn’t quite complement the Brussel sprouts — the way lardon or pancetta would — that were already drowning in oil and juices.
At Employees Only, it’s not just the food that is comforting, but also the warm and inviting atmosphere. Whether you’re at the bar or dining in the outdoor seating area, you feel at home. A nice touch is the tarot-card reader who sits in the little alcove between the entrance of the restaurant and the bar room. You see her immediately as you enter, and this mysterious touch sets the tone for the experience inside.
Dinner, late night drinks or brunch, Employees Only gets my vote!
Posted in American , Drinks , Pasta , Pork , West Village
Linguine al Pesto e Clams
by Celia Cheng
February 21st, 2007
CAFFE FALAI
265 Lafayette St
(Prince & Spring St)
212-274-8615
Caffe Falai is ideally situated on Lafayette between Prince and Spring, slightly separated from its sister restaurant (Falai) and bakery (Falai Panetteria) on Clinton Street. The decor resonates as modern and fashionable, subtle yet eye-catching, even though the dominant color palette is white. Though there’s no street sign shouting out to let passer-bys know that it’s a Falai establishment, pedestrians walking by invariably do double-takes, intrigued by the pretty interior and the crowd of BP’s (beautiful people) on display.
There’s a brunch menu that’s served until late afternoon but my main attraction to Caffe Falai are its pastas, being the carb girl that I am.
For lunch, to cleanse my system a little, I ordered a salad, in addition to two pastas: the potato tortelli with Bolognese ragu and the linguine al pesto e clams. I love how the menu is laced with a mix of Italian and English at will, Italiglish! Cynthia and I tend to communicate in a mix of languages as well and rather than a bastardization of tradition, I prefer to think that it’s modernization and evolution. Anyway, back to the pastas: YUUUMMMMMMY!
One of my absolute favorite pasta dishes is linguine with clams. As you may know, I am always on the prowl for a perfected linguine with clams, and in the City I can only cite two restaurants that serve my favorites: Celeste and Babbo. Well, here comes the third, at Caffe Falai. The linguine is so fresh that when it’s cooked it doesn’t have the hardness of dried pastas al dente. Instead, the fresh pasta has a springy quality (like fresh ramen) and soaks in the mouthwatering pesto sauce. The little clams are also fresh and clean – sandy clams are a major pet peeve of mine – and the rich flavor of clam juice a nice accompaniment to the pasta and pesto.
The potato tortelli was also delicious! The homemade tortelli skin is thin and the potato filling inside is so fine it’s like a purée. The ragu is also minced and ground so smooth that it’s more like a mash. I have to say, while it’s scrumptious, I prefer when meat sauce is not so delicate. In this case, the texture of the potato inside the tortelli and the ragu outside is too similar. I’m not asking for course ground meat, but something slightly less silky would give it more contrast. I think what I’ve just said must be blasphemous to the Falai cooking philosophy, as they tend to stress refinement and delicacy. This is not a complaint though, just a thought. The dish is good and I’d go back for more.
Open from 7 am to 8 pm, The Caffe sells Falai breads and baked goods at the front counter to stay or to go. It’s waiting for its liquor license so the kitchen currently closes early at 8pm. Even without alcohol, for the time being, it’s a great little café and hangout for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Posted in Italian , NoLIta , Pasta
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