Kobideh Kebob (beef kebob)
by Celia Cheng
November 21st, 2008
RAVAGH PERSIAN GRILL
11 E 30th St
(5th & Madison Ave)
212-696-0300
$
I’ve been on a Middle Eastern kick lately, evidenced by my recent review and frequent visits to Naya, but Ravagh, recommended by a friend, was a surprise and an excellent one at that. Around since 1996, Ravagh is on an unassuming block, with Persian rug stores, close to K-town. Two stories high, the main dining room is on the ground floor while the top is for larger parties.
I liked it so much I’ve been back three times with a fourth visit set for this weekend (after a second screening of Quantum of Solace — a little meat to go with my Bond).
Here is what I’ve found spectacular at Ravagh: the kobideh kebob (seasoned ground beef kebobs), the lamb shank stew and their specialty rice: zereshk polo (barberries, currants and saffron mixed with basmati rice) and green rice (dill rice with fava beans).
The kobideh is two skewers of seasoned garlicky ground beef, and the aromas that tickle your senses when you bite into the meat are addictive. Though it’s served with basmati rice, you can substitute it with one of the special rices. I recommend the fruitiness of the dried barberries and currants as the perfect complement to the full-flavored ground meat mixed with spices. I also order yogurt (cucumber over shallots) to balance the meat with something tangy and refreshing. And be advised, the portions are large, so I also recommend sharing.
The lamb stew is a shank of tender and succulent meat simmered with herbs and garlic in a tomato sauce. Served with dill rice, it’s the quintessential home-style dish that brings warmth to your tummy and heart. I savor the flavors of the stew by just taking a few spoonfuls alone, then I dress the dill and fava bean rice in it as well.
While both of these meat dishes sound hearty, they are neither heavy nor greasy. They fill you up but don’t weigh you down. As the weather gets colder, I can’t think of a better way to warm up than at Ravagh with these two superb dishes.
A word of advice, bring your own wine ($15 cork fee) and skip the appetizers. I’d go straight for the good stuff.
Posted in Beef , Lamb , Middle Eastern , Murray Hill , Persian , Rice
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Baby Lamb
by Celia Cheng
September 29th, 2008
BUN
143 Grand Street
(Crosby & Lafayette St)
212-431-7999
$
Bun is a pleasant surprise. I am consistently wowed by the delicious flavors of owner Executive Chef Tony Lam’s Vietnamese cuisine. The perfectly balanced ingredients bring out the natural vibrancy of the aromas, juices and flavors in his food. Much of the Vietnamese cuisine in the City either relies on MSG or is too dull in its repetitive use of seasoning. That is not the case here. The herbs, spices and sauces are not an afterthought just to embellish but are carefully orchestrated to match the ingredients in each dish.
Bun focuses on small plates for sharing, in addition to the signature bun (rice vermicelli with or without soup). And with so many fabulous dishes, the small plates are ideal, so you can try more.
For a starter, one of the most memorable dishes is the baby lamb. Tied together by a banana leaf, three pieces of the tenderest, most succulent baby lamb chops sit atop a bed of warm, soft eggplant, pear chutney and anise sauce. The chutney and sauce may make this dish sound “exotic” and overdressed in “fusion,” but believe me it’s not. The pure and simple flavors are subtle, home-style and satisfying.
Two other not-to-be-missed meat dishes are the short ribs and pork ribs (photo above). Served in the same style, they look like large lollipops. The thinly sliced short ribs are wrapped around lemongrass skewers, while the pork ribs are wrapped around sugar cane sticks. And once you bite into one, the meat almost melts in your mouth. My ribs were so tender and juicy that I kept asking Tony how he does it. But that remained a mystery as he told me to just enjoy them.
The Soho shrimp is another dish I crave. It’s tiger shrimp sautéed in coconut green curry accompanied by bun. I’m a sucker for green curry and shrimp, so the combination is ideal, and the bun soaks up all the sweetness and spices from the curry. Yum.
The spring rolls are ironically the only thing I did not love. I’m a stickler for the traditional crisp rice paper-wrapped spring rolls, but the rolls here feel thick and the sauces heavy. They seem to betray themselves by trying to be too creative.
On the lighter side, Bun vegetables is a lovely rendition of the typical Chinese vegetarian dish called Buddha’s delight, which is also on the menu, but instead of the stir fried Buddha’s delight, Bun vegetables is a cold dish. It’s a combination of king and shiitake mushrooms with tofu and herbs. Unlike the sad medley of sautéed vegetables at many Asian restaurants — barely a notch better than chop sui — this dish focuses on flavor and texture. The creamy and meaty mix of mushrooms and springy tofu skins is lightly dressed in a soy sauce and accented with fresh herbs. If there were ever a dish that could convert me to vegetarianism, this would be it.
In addition to the wonderful food, Tony also concocts fun cocktails. My favorite is the Bun Piña Colada. It’s a frozen drink with fresh mint, coconut milk, pineapple juice, organic protein drink, and vodka. The fresh crushed mint emanates throughout this blended drink enhancing the tropical flavors of coconut milk and pineapple juice. Drinks like these that taste like dessert are always dangerous since one hardly detects the alcohol, but it’s definitely there.
Speaking of desserts, I welcomed a change of pace with a hard-to-come-by dessert: durian panna cotta. Durian is the “stinky fruit” revered in Southeast Asia, and it’s definitely an acquired taste. As this exotic fruit is both uncommon in the U.S. and extremely expensive, Bun’s panna cotta may be a good introduction as the cream tames the durian flavor while still giving a feel for the pungent fruit.
As of last month, Bun is open around the clock for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so it’s now a place you can count on getting something delicious at every meal.
Posted in Lamb , Meat , SoHo , Vietnamese
