Salad-Topped Baked Potato
by Celia Cheng
April 28th, 2008
TOTALLY BAKED
8 West 18th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
646-336-6118
I love potatoes! I once designed a book called “Potatoes are Our Friends.” I even named my company “P. de Terre” short for pomme de terre, which is potato in French. Back in school, for a class project, I conceived of a potato restaurant, but apparently someone has beaten me to the punch.
Totally Baked is a baked potato bar located across from City Bakery on 18th Street. Jason Apfelbaum has revamped his original catering outlet Chef & Company, taking the concept of lowbrow baked potatoes, sprucing up the toppings, and creating a specialty fast food store. And it seems to work as there’s always a line whether it’s noon or 3pm. It’s comforting to know that in image-obsessed New York City, there are still hearty potato fans who refuse to take carbs out of their diet.
The menu offers baked potatoes in five categories: favorites (served in baked Yukon Golds with a small side salad), famous (reserved exclusively for the truffle), fresh (cold salads served over a large wedge of baked Idaho), sweet (sweet potatoes), and create (any three toppings of your choice).
Within favorites, besides the classic (chive, sour cream, applewood smoked bacon and cheddar), there are a handful of fun options such as pulled pork (pulled pernil pork and Mexican slaw), brisket (braised beef brisket, parsley and marsala reduction), and wild mushroom (chanterelle, shitake, oysters, crimini mushrooms, shallots, chives and shaved Manchego).
Most potatoes are between $7 and $11, but much buzz has been around the $55 truffle potato that’s topped with truffle compound butter, truffle oil, truffle salt and fresh truffle shavings.
My favorite is the fresh category — the salad potatoes. There are six choices: spinach, Caesar, chopped, chevre, seared ahi tuna or nova. On my first visit, I ordered the ahi. It’s sushi grade tuna, romaine, seaweed salad, sesame seeds and ginger vinaigrette. It sounded like a disaster to me, with too much going on, and trying too hard for an Asian bent, but in the large display photo, it looked appetizing, so I tried it. Ironically, this is now one of my top cravings.
I also tried the chopped, with romaine, avocado, cucumber, chickpeas, feta cheese and a creamy balsamic dressing. But when I got my potato, the avocado was missing, so I went back to the counter to inquire. They use guacamole instead of whole avocados, and they were happy to give me a side of it. Once I smothered the potato with guacamole, it was perfect. I like the fresh category because the salad dressing provides good seasoning and moisture for the potato so that it’s not so dry. And salad on a potato is lighter and healthier than the other alternatives. Baked potatoes actually aren’t bad for you; it’s just greasy toppings that make them unhealthy. The salad potatoes fill me up without leaving me stuffed. In fact, three to four hours later, my stomach starts to growl.
From the favorites, I tried the Cape Cod Chowder, but found it disappointing. The topping of creamed cod and potato, sautéed onions, parsley, garlic and grated Manchego was heavy and sparse, leaving me with a dry potato that I didn’t want to pick at anymore.
Totally Baked is predominantly a take-out business, and for those in a rush, the line moves fast and the staff is eager to please. But for those who want to eat in, there are seats along the wall across from the service counter. And don’t miss the framed 1970s storyboard sketches of a Mr. Potato Head commercial by the entrance. It’s not fine dining but it’s fun, and at the end of the day, I just can’t resist potatoes.
Posted in American , Flat Iron District , Potato
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Stuzzichini Misti (selection of five appetizers)
by Celia Cheng
August 30th, 2007
It doesn’t seem to matter whether it’s blazing hot or abnormally cold; the weather this month has not affected my appetite in the least bit. It’s been another full month of non-stop eating. I’ve had the chance to try a dozen restaurants, old and new, that have been on my list. Here are three more quick highlights for August:
Bar Stuzzichini
928 Broadway
(21st & 22nd St)
212-780-5100
The stuzzichini (small plate appetizers) at this new Flat Iron district Italian restaurant are actually quite good, but the size of the restaurant can be distracting and the service consistently sloppy. It feels more like a dining hall than a nice restaurant. Sitting at the marble-topped dining bar could’ve been just as delightful as the dining bar at Bellavitae, but, unfortunately, Bar Stuzzichini lacks the intimacy and comfort, and the large restaurant atmosphere sadly detracts from the otherwise perfectly good stuzzichinis. The pastas are descent but not exceptional and desserts not too interesting. My recommendation is to sit at the bar and have the stuzzichini misti — one of each from the five categories: fritti (fried), verdure (vegetables), pesce (seafood), formaggi (cheeses), and salumi (cured meats). Ordered individually, each appetizer ranges from $5 to $10, but the misti is a bargain at $22. The arancini (fried rice balls) are wonderfully crunchy on the outside and gooey inside, and the scamorza alla brace (grilled scamorza cheese — a type of dried and cured mozzarella) is scrumptious. It seems to me that happy hour at Bar Stuzzichini for some snacks may be the way to go.
Rose Water
787 Union St
(5th & 6th Ave)
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718-783-3800
website
Rose Water is a foodie haven in Park Slope. The seasonal menu focuses on quality ingredients, the service is always pleasant, and the prices are fair. At a recent dinner, the sweet corn risotto with oyster mushrooms, zucchini, pickled onions and herbs stood out as an extremely savory combination. The weekend prix-fixe brunch at $13 is also very worthwhile and includes an entrée and a drink. It’s an unbeatable deal. This past weekend, I was happy as a clam after having the poached eggs on flat grilled corn cakes, served with plum sauce and accompanied by a feta, spinach and grilled cherry tomato salad — a special so it was $15 instead of $13 — and a glass of fresh watermelon peach juice. Rose Water is yet another great Park Slope neighborhood restaurant.
Sfoglia
1402 Lexington Ave
@ 92nd St
212-831-1402
website
Trying to get a dinner reservation at Sfoglia is a real challenge, as they seem to be booked six-weeks in advance. It’s no wonder, since Sfoglia is small, with only ten tables and a bar, and the food is simple and good. If your schedule is flexible, though, there is the option of lunch, which is rather quiet. Several of the regulars eating alone at the bar treat Sfolgia like a neighborhood café, bringing reading or writing material and leisurely enjoying their meals. The homemade bread is served fresh and warm! It’s like country bread with a dash of sea salt seasoning; the outer crust is crunchy but not too hard or thick, and the bread inside is white and fluffy. The frittata of the day (fennel, cipollini onions and parmesan on the day of my lunch) seemed a popular choice amongst the bar diners, so I tried it and decided that on my next visit that would be all I’d need for lunch. Naturally I couldn’t pass up the scialatelli (a thicker version of spaghetti), roasted cherry tomatoes, bottarga di muggine (dried grey mullet fish roe), parsley and garlic. The scialatelli is a meatier pasta and worked well with the sweet roasted cherry tomatoes and bottarga. The pappardelle alla Bolognese sounded great with ground pork, veal and chicken liver and fresh hand-cut sheets of papparadelle, but alas the dish was over-salted and thus disappointing. Nevertheless, Sfoglia is a rustic gem, a sliver of a restaurant on the UES that I will happily return to for lunch. It’s a place where you can relax and find peace of mind, if you can take the time.
Posted in American , Appetizer , Brunch , Flat Iron District , Italian , Park Slope , Small Plates , UES
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Tapas
by Celia Cheng
December 18th, 2006
BOQUERIA
53 W 19th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-255-4160
Wow! Let me say that again. Wow! How much fun was Boqueria?! Though it was packed and a bit loud especially for a Monday night, I enjoyed the atmosphere, the décor, and most of all, the food! I must admit that I’m guilty of only trying the tapas and cheese on my first visit, and not the medium and large plates, which I hear are even better. Is that even possible considering the tapas were delicious?! No worries though, I will be back again and again to try everything. I only wish that this was my neighborhood restaurant so that I could just walk downstairs and either have a drink at the bar and munch on tapas or eat a full meal. Instead I live in the culinary desert called University Place — the biggest magnet for the most mediocre and unsatisfying eateries.
Many friends told me about Boqueria and a reader even sent me a specific craving, cojonudo (fried quail eggs and chorizo on toast), which reminded me to check it out. The cojonudo was my favorite, even though I really liked everything! It’s like a miniature egg and sausage open face sandwich, with a little fried quail egg on a slice of chorizo on a small piece of toast — bite size. Two of these mini treats comes in one order, so naturally we added another order on top of bacon wrapped dates, croquettes, tortilla, patatas bravas, a special fried squid and zucchini, and the flash fried and house pickled sardines, which was another knock out! We also tried six cheeses and a cured sausage that were all very fun and delicious.
I usually go in depth to describe the taste, textures and aromas of each dish, but Boqueria is a place filled with bursts of energy. Everything delights for a moment in time and you can move on to the next, sure of continuing pleasure. My attention span is cut short but I totally recommend the food and the experience. So stop reading and go try it!
Posted in Flat Iron District , Spanish , Tapas
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Spaghetti w/ Tobiko (flying fish roe) & Shiso
by Celia Cheng
August 29th, 2006
BASTA PASTA
37 W 17th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-366-0888
Basta Pasta opened in 1990. Since then, they’ve maintained the quality of their food while developing a loyal following. I love Japanese spaghetti — the Japanese have successfully adapted pasta into their own cuisine, coming up with delicious flavors and original sauces. When I lived in Japan, I had to go to my local Japanese spaghetti restaurant at least once or twice a week to get my fill. The butter and soy sauce based pastas were my favorite. My point in telling this story is to explain that Basta Pasta is not some weird imitation Italian restaurant opened by Japanese people. It’s a true representation of the Japanese interpretation of Italian cuisine in Japan.
To start, the fresh vegetable sticks with warm anchovy cream dip are not to be missed. This item hardly stands out on the antipasti menu, but believe me, it’s a real knock-out! The vegetables are fun with asparagus, okra, endives and green beans in the mix — the selection varies depending on what’s in season. But the secret weapon is the warm anchovy dip. It’s not dense and creamy like most vegetable dips, but rather watery in consistency, making it light, easy to eat, and extremely addictive. Once we finished all the vegetable sticks, my friends and I continued to soak up and finish the anchovy dip with bread. This is definitely a no-prisoner-left-behind dish.
The seared tuna with wasabi tartar sauce and salad came highly recommended by the waiter and it was a lovely way to start the evening — even before the veggie sticks — with something light, refreshing, and balanced in flavor. Seared tuna can often be a bore these days, but the wasabi tartar sauce jazzed it up with a nice subtle touch. The last appetizer we shared was the black mussels & clams, steamed in garlic and white wine, and it was a bit lackluster as neither the clams nor the mussels were meaty or juicy enough.
For pasta, the spaghetti tobiko and shiso was so tasty that I’ve been dreaming about it ever since. The Japanese love mixing pastas with fish roe — mentaiko and tarako are most commonly used — and it works because the texture of the roe adds a miniature crunch and a strong flavor to the pasta. There’s a lot of butter and garlic in this dish, so it’s not as light as it may sound. The shiso gives the dish a fresh, crisp flavor that balances the other, more potent flavors of the dish.
Oh! One of the great things about Basta Pasta is that you can order half portions of the pastas. I love this option not because I only want half a portion but because this way, I can taste more than one or two pastas. The homemade squid ink tagliolini with Chilean sea bass ragu & shredded zucchini in spicy tomato sauce is also delicious and I highly recommend it. It’s simply a good combination of great ingredients and flavors. The linguine with 5 kinds of clams in light tomato sauce is also very nice. I love clams, and with five varieties of clams, it makes this pasta more fun. I also tried the linguine with sea urchin and basil in pink sauce, and though the Japanese love to use uni in their pastas as much as the Italians do, this one did not stand out for me. The uni flavor tasted a bit flat and the pink sauce was a little too heavy.
Although Basta Pasta is bustling every night, it’s one of those places where you feel at ease and comfortable. The open kitchen, the friendly and professional staff and the consistently good food keep the regulars coming back for more. And for those who who can’t contain their inner American Idol, there’s a karaoke bar conveniently located next door.
Posted in Flat Iron District , Italian , Pasta
Cupcakes
by Celia Cheng
September 17th, 2005
CUPCAKE CAFÉ
@ Books of Wonder
18 W 18 th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
646-307-5878
I’ve developed a horrible addiction, an addiction to the cupcakes at Cupcake Café. You can imagine that maple walnut is my favorite, but I tried a vanilla/chocolate the other day and almost died and went to heaven.
In the past couple of years, we’ve definitely seen a cupcake boom in NYC. I was just reading about the feuding and animosity between bakeries. While, the myriad of Magnolia-lineage bakeries (Buttercup Bake Shop, Sugar Sweet Sunshine, Billy’s, Little Cupcake Bakeshop) produce fun and pretty cupcakes with pastel-colored frosting, they are usually too sweet, too hard and, well, a bit crusty. So I find it ironic that these other bakeries are fighting in court, when in reality none of their cupcakes taste as good as those from Cupcake Café.
The frosting at Cupcake Café is made with buttercream, so it’s smoother, richer and much more delicious than its competitors’ crusty confections. The original Cupcake Café is in Hell’s Kitchen, but since they opened a store on 18 th Street inside the new Books of Wonder space I’ve had neighborhood-easy access — and hence the addiction.
Known for their signature floral designs on cakes and cupcakes alike, these sweets are almost too pretty to eat, though for me it depends on the design — some of the flowers and colors look a bit too kitschy. So find a flavor and a design that you like, and indulge! At $3 per large cupcake and $2.30 per small cupcake, these are not cheap treats, but when I think of the artistry and labor going into the decorative flowers on top and the superior quality in taste of both cake and frosting, I gladly hand over the money to get my fix.
Posted in Flat Iron District , Sweets
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