“Steak and Eggs” Korean Style
by Celia Cheng
August 26th, 2008
THE GOOD FORK
391 Van Brunt St
(Van Dyke & Coffey St)
Red Hook, Brooklyn
718-643-6636
$$
The Good Fork has been on my list of restaurants to try for quite some time now. I was deterred by the lack of public transportation to the Red Hook area, but since the recent opening of Brooklyn’s IKEA, I could no longer use the difficult commute excuse, with the free water taxi and shuttle buses now available.
They take a limited number of reservations as most of the tables are left open for walk-ins. So securing one for Saturday at 8pm was a smart move, considering that walk-ins were told the wait was an hour and a half for a party of two.
I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I knew that since 360 closed, The Good Fork has been pretty much the only restaurant in this neighborhood that congregates locals and foodies alike. Chef owner Sohui Kim cooked at Savoy and Annisa, two of my favorites, before opening The Good Fork with her husband. I knew it was going to be a good meal, but I didn’t realize that I’d be so excited that I’d want to come back the next night. I opted to return the following week instead, and while my dinner companion and I ordered the same excellent entrées, we tried different appetizers and sides.
With a focus on local organic produce, the cuisine is American with some Korean influences, like the homemade dumplings, kimchi rice, shrimp scallion pancake and “steak and eggs” Korean style.
My companion and I started with the mixed organic field greens with house dressing, which is a great choice for a simple, healthy appetizer. There’s nothing boring about it. But for a little added diversity, the other salad option of grilled nectarine, curly endive, green beans and maple braised bacon, is also lovely. The dumplings were lack-luster, but the chilled Pacific oysters poached in olive oil, with mango avocado and lemon cucumbers was a hit. When asked what type of oysters these were, the waiter returned to tell me that their distributor would only say they’re from the Pacific Northwest. Though I couldn’t get the variety out of them, the oysters were deliciously plump and juicy. The brininess was undercut by the sweet mango and creamy avocado. Lemon cucumbers are now my new love, and the only cukes I’ll buy when available. There was an accent of kochujang (Korean hot sauce) on the plate to add some heat to the cool dish.
On the two separate occasions, we tried the dumplings (as mentioned) and pancake, which did not live up to expectations — for these two Korean staples, I prefer what I can find in Koreatown both for flavor and texture. The steak and eggs, however, is outstanding. Marinating beef is a strength in Korean cuisine, so the grilled skirt steak is not only tender, but also perfectly seasoned. It’s served with kimchi rice and a fried egg — a delectable combination. On my first visit, the kimchi rice was too soggy and bland, and I had wished that it was made more like kimchi fried rice, with the rice grains clearly defined and absorbing the spicy and tangy juices of the kimchi. They must have heard my prayers because the rice on the following Saturday was perfect in texture: not too soggy or greasy.
Another entrée we ordered two weeks in a row was the grilled gulf shrimp with risotto. It was cooked with lemon-thyme, peas, Added Value Farm squash, zucchini and cherry tomatoes. Every ingredient in this dish exuded freshness. The flavors were pronounced, proving that local, in-season produce makes better meals.
We ended both meals with the apple tart à la mode. Warm, with delicate slices of baked apple and flaky thin-layered crust, it hits the spot.
A copious dinner for two with two appetizers, two entrées, two glasses of wine and a dessert to share rang in both times just under $100. In terms of quality price ratio, The Good Fork wins a gold medal. Overall, the good food, charming atmosphere, friendly service and great value place The Good Fork on another list of mine: favorites.
Posted in American , Beef , Korean , Red Hook
Porterhouse Steak
by Celia Cheng
March 31st, 2008
BENJAMIN STEAK HOUSE
52 E 41st St
(Madison & Park Ave)
212-297-9177
If there’s one thing a steak house should be, it’s grand! And Benjamin Steak House, in the century-old, Chemist Club-building-turned-Dylan Hotel in Midtown Manhattan, is exactly that.
Once inside the restaurant, a long, dark corridor leads to the heart of the restaurant, revealing the opulent main dining room with remarkably high ceilings, white columns, brass chandeliers, and a staircase that winds up to the second level dining area — a great seating option as it’s an open mezzanine overlooking the first floor. The lighting is dim to match the décor that I had read, “evokes a bygone era.” Before actually seeing the place, though, I was afraid that this characterization might translate to cheesy, but the restaurant interior is nothing short of gorgeous.
Benjamin Steak House is the collaborative endeavor of Peter Luger alumni: owner, Benjamin Prelvukaj and Chef Arturo McLeod. They are among a handful of Luger alum that have opened steakhouses in New York in recent years, paying tribute to the Luger tradition, but unlike the brash and dismissive treatment at Luger’s, Benjamin’s service is impeccable.
More precisely, our waiter was impeccable. His nametag read “Benny,” but his Eastern European accent suggested that “Benny” was probably a convenient Americanization of some other name. Benny, actually Besim Lajqi from Kosovo, seemed much younger than most of his colleagues, and perhaps because of that, at first my ageism got the better of me as I wondered if he knew what he was doing. However, at only twenty-two, Besim knows correct, old world service better than ninety percent of the servers I’ve encountered in New York. Throughout our meal, he was attentive but not overbearing and quick to pick up on details and jokes. The courses were well paced, and Besim divided the food evenly and expertly between mine and my sister’s plates. He did not appear offended when we didn’t take his recommendations, but we eventually realized our error in not trusting him. Professional and charming is what we hope every server can be, but that is most often not the case. We certainly lucked out with “Benny.”
My sister and I enjoyed a classic steak dinner, starting with iceberg wedges with blue cheese and jumbo shrimp cocktail. For main, the porterhouse for two was a combination of sirloin and filet mignon. I found the filet mignon a bit stringy, but the sirloin was stellar and there’s no doubt that the quality of the dry-aged beef was first rate, as the slices of steak were succulent and juicy. I was satisfied but couldn’t finish it all, so I took some leftovers home and gave them a second try. The only problem was that in heating them up, I cooked the initially perfectly medium rare cuts to medium well, which might have been a complete tragedy if the meat had not been able stand on its own. But they stood up to my overcooking, and still retained great flavor!
The side of German potatoes cooked golden brown was a cross between crispy and soggy and didn’t add anything to the meal, and the creamed spinach (a secret recipe, not made with cream) veered towards ordinary, too. I was excited for the homemade schlag (whipped cream) that came with the key lime pie and mixed berries for dessert, but that also disappointed as it was heavy and weighed down, not light or refreshing.
Potatoes and desserts aside, if you’re craving a steak in an elegant old school setting, do consider Benjamin Steak House. Have a cocktail at the bar while taking in the décor, and then enjoy a classic meal with quality meats and superb service. (And don’t forget to ask for Benny!)
Posted in American , Beef , Midtown East , Steak
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Calotte de Boeuf Grillée
by Celia Cheng
February 8th, 2007
PER SE
10 Columbus Circle
@ 60th St, 4rd Floor
212-823-9335
In terms of monumental dining experiences, to visit a Thomas Keller restaurant ranks at the top of culinary excursions in the US. I find it difficult then to share this experience because I presume the expectations for describing it are as high as my expectations were going into this meal. I’m not sure how to do justice to such a lavish adventure so I’ve decided to just break things down. I’m sure that we will be featuring Per Se again, so think of this as an introduction, as it was for me.
Per Se serves the same menu at lunch and dinner, changing daily. There are two prix-fixe nine-course menus to choose from: Chef’s Tasting Menu and Tasting of Vegetables. Both are set at $250. I was extremely enticed by the vegetable tasting menu, particularly since it was lunch and I was leaning towards a lighter repast, but for my first meal at Per Se, I opted for the full experience with the Chef’s Tasting Menu. I’ve posted the menu below. For any course that required a choice, I have highlighted the one I chose.
Chef’s Tasting Menu — February 8, 2007
“OYSTER AND PEARLS”
“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
___
SALAD OF HAWAIIAN HEARTS OF PEACH PALM
Satur Farm’s Carrots, Medjool Date and Candied Marcona Almonds with Cilantro-Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil
or
“TERRINE” OF HUDSON VALLEY MOULARD DUCK “FOIE GRAS”
Black Winter Truffles, Frisée Lettuce and Balsamic Reduction with Toasted “Brioche”
($40 supplement)
___
SAUTÉED MEDITERRANEAN ROUGET
“Confit” of Violet Artichokes and “Brandade Barbajuan” with “Sauce Rouille”
___
BUTTER POACHED NOVA SCOTIA LOBSTER
“Topinambours en Trois Facons,” Meyer Lemon “Suprêmes,” Young Sorrel and Meyer Lemon “Mousseline”
___
SIRLOIN OF HALLOW FARM’S RABBIT
Wrapped in Applewood Smoked Bacon, “Petite” Onions and Forest Mushrooms “à la Grecque” with Rabbit “Jus”
or
“FRICASSÉE DE CERVELLE DE VEAU”
“Gnocchi Parisienne,” California Crosnes and Wilted “Roquette” with Black Winter Truffle-Veal Sauce
___
SNAKE RIVER FARM’S “CALOTTE DE BOEUF GRILLÉE”
Crispy Bone Marrow, Toasted Farro, Braised Swiss Chard Leaves and “Sauce Bordelaise”
___
“WINNEMERE”
Per Se Coleslaw, Red Wine Poached Gala Apple, Garden Mâche and Blis Maple Syrup
___
GUAVA SORBET
“Crème de Yaourt Frais,” Black Licorice “Dust” and Pomegranate “Nuage”
___
“TENTATION AU CHOCOLAT, NOISETTE ET LAIT”
Milk Chocolate “Crémeux” and Hazelnut “Streusel” with Condensed Milk Sorbet, “Pain au Lait” Sauce and Sweetened Salty Hazelnuts
___
“Mignardises”
The food was magnificent! Particularly the calotte de boeuf grillée, which I had heard raving reviews about before. As explained to my dining companion and I, “calotte” is the cut of beef wrapped around the rib eye that butchers usually discard. Thomas Keller decided to make use of the cut of meat that’s usually disposed of and we are so glad he did! The calotte is marbled and tender, a juicy cut of meat in and of itself but in the sauce Bordelaise it was so scrumptious that I devoured the entire dish even though I had only picked at some of previous dishes because I was so full. I’m a bone marrow fanatic and found this little piece of lightly deep-fried tempura-like marrow so elegant! The farro and Swiss chard were so beautifully paired in this dish that it was sheer perfection!
The fricassée de cervelle de veau, or sautéed beef brains, was another winner. The dish is extremely rich, what with the gnocchi, the black winter truffle-veal sauce and the brains themselves, but oh-so-good! The crosnes, small white tubers from a plant of the mint family — they look like strings of connected pearls and taste like Jerusalem artichokes – was a delightful crunchy surprise in contrast to the softness and chewiness of both the brains and the gnocchi.
The butter poached Nova Scotia lobster was also outstanding. Once again, Thomas Keller’s decision to pair succulent lobster meat with the refreshing tastes of Meyer lemon and the smokier and richer fullness of sorrels was mind blowing.
My favorite dessert was the guava sorbet. I always attribute my attachment to guava to my childhood, eating the fruit and drinking the juice both in Taiwan and Hawaii. I’m not a fan of licorice, but the licorice dust was subtle in flavor and the texture gave it the effect of finely pulverized Oreos, without the sweetness. The crème of yogurt and strawberry and the pomegranate cloud — a poetic interpretation of foam — was beyond just right. I often find desserts to be too heavy and rich, and am so delighted when there’s something as original in thought and flavor as this work of art.
The Chef’s Tasting Menu was amazing! And the cost of the meal is well worth it. You are right if you feel a “but…” coming on. But… with wine pairings and other extraneous add-ons, the tab came to about $600 per person, including service. Since I am just breaking things down, I’ll be concise. The three main factors for judging a dining experience usually are: food, atmosphere and service. Per Se has mastered the first category hands down. In fact, the food is so good that it will make up for what it lacks in the second two categories. And when I say lacks, I mean in relation to its price point. Even though the interior of the restaurant is pleasant and there is a gorgeous view of Central Park, I hate feeling like I’m eating in Vegas mall environment. Going to the Time Warner Center for a three star meal doesn’t feel luxurious but actually cheapens the experience. The service is professional but seems too rehearsed and insincere. It’s a routine that they have down pat, but while all servers are pleasant, I found them to be too robotic and lacked warmth and attention to detail. At the end of the meal, a tour of the kitchen is part of the show-and-tell. But simple requests like a copy of the menu were forgotten, and even when requested by phone there was no follow-up. While I found the meal memorable, the service made me feel like us diners were rather forgettable and inconsequential. I am looking forward to future meals at Per Se but I do hope that their hospitality will have improved by then.
Posted in American , Beef , French , UWS
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