Kobideh Kebob (beef kebob)
by Celia Cheng
November 21st, 2008
RAVAGH PERSIAN GRILL
11 E 30th St
(5th & Madison Ave)
212-696-0300
$
I’ve been on a Middle Eastern kick lately, evidenced by my recent review and frequent visits to Naya, but Ravagh, recommended by a friend, was a surprise and an excellent one at that. Around since 1996, Ravagh is on an unassuming block, with Persian rug stores, close to K-town. Two stories high, the main dining room is on the ground floor while the top is for larger parties.
I liked it so much I’ve been back three times with a fourth visit set for this weekend (after a second screening of Quantum of Solace — a little meat to go with my Bond).
Here is what I’ve found spectacular at Ravagh: the kobideh kebob (seasoned ground beef kebobs), the lamb shank stew and their specialty rice: zereshk polo (barberries, currants and saffron mixed with basmati rice) and green rice (dill rice with fava beans).
The kobideh is two skewers of seasoned garlicky ground beef, and the aromas that tickle your senses when you bite into the meat are addictive. Though it’s served with basmati rice, you can substitute it with one of the special rices. I recommend the fruitiness of the dried barberries and currants as the perfect complement to the full-flavored ground meat mixed with spices. I also order yogurt (cucumber over shallots) to balance the meat with something tangy and refreshing. And be advised, the portions are large, so I also recommend sharing.
The lamb stew is a shank of tender and succulent meat simmered with herbs and garlic in a tomato sauce. Served with dill rice, it’s the quintessential home-style dish that brings warmth to your tummy and heart. I savor the flavors of the stew by just taking a few spoonfuls alone, then I dress the dill and fava bean rice in it as well.
While both of these meat dishes sound hearty, they are neither heavy nor greasy. They fill you up but don’t weigh you down. As the weather gets colder, I can’t think of a better way to warm up than at Ravagh with these two superb dishes.
A word of advice, bring your own wine ($15 cork fee) and skip the appetizers. I’d go straight for the good stuff.
Posted in Beef , Lamb , Middle Eastern , Murray Hill , Persian , Rice
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Chicken Shish Taouk
by Celia Cheng
October 27th, 2008
NAYA MEZZE & GRILL
1057 2nd Ave
(55th & 56th St)
212-319-7777
Two Fridays ago, after the Ferran Adrià talk at the New York Public Library, my companions and I had to think about where to go for dinner in the neighborhood. A suggestion for “the new Lebanese restaurant” was thrown out, and my sister and I immediately jumped on it. We zoomed over to Second Avenue between 55th and 56th Streets to find this new Mediterranean restaurant. Once we arrived on the block, Naya Mezze & Grill was hard to miss.
The décor of the restaurant is ultra modern, almost futuristic. Smart design maximizes the deep and narrow interior space making it hard to tell that the restaurant only seats 50. Divided into two rooms, the front is bright white with backlit metal panel walls surrounding two- and four-seater booths separated by a center walkway. Space is tight, but not uncomfortable, with slots under the seats to hold your belongings. The backroom has the same walls, but seems darker in contrast, seating up to 16, with glass partitions surrounding the semi-open kitchen, so you can see the cooking action.
The first night I visited, they had only been open three days, and the traffic was already non-stop. A week later, they continued to be fully booked. On both occasions, I noticed that passersby invariably stared through the glass walls intrigued, and more often than not, they would come in to ask for a seat. The décor is definitely eye-catching, but my first thought was that it was distracting — only because so many mediocre restaurants spend more money on looks than on the craft of their cuisine.
But Naya doesn’t just rely on looks. There’s a lot of talent and soul in their food. Every dish presented at our table was a delight to taste. And each time I surveyed the orders at the other booths, I wanted to try those dishes, too.
There’s nothing on the menu I’ve tried that I haven’t liked. To start, Kibbé Naya, Lebanese steak tartar, is pastier than the French version as it is mixed with bulgur wheat, as well as onion and mint. The batata harra, spicy sautéed cubes of potatoes with fresh coriander, reminds me of the Spanish patatas bravas, without the spicy aioli; instead, the coriander gives it fragrance and freshness. The grape leaves are served warm, stuffed with parsley, onion, tomato and rice. And there’s also the duo eggplant squash, stuffed with the same four ingredients plus chili pepper and walnuts. But my favorite of the small dishes was the eggplant and cumin kibbé from the kibbé trio. A beef dumpling is cut in half and stuffed with eggplant purée. The contrast in textures of the minced beef and the silky smooth eggplant is simply wonderful.
This leads us to the climax: the chicken shish taouk entrée. It’s grilled chicken breast (served off the skewers) marinated in garlic and lemon and served with garlic sauce and French fries, but I always ask to have the Lebanese rice instead of fries. You might be thinking that of all grilled meats, why chicken? Especially when there’s the choice of lamb. Well, I did try the kafta kebab, but believe me, the chicken shish taouk blows everything out of the water. Just thinking about these tender and juicy pieces of chicken, my mouth starts to water. The garlic sauce, toum, is the Lebanese aioli, a blend of fresh garlic, olive oil, eggs and salt. It’s so delicious that I ended up adding it to everything. Lebanese rice that’s laced with vermicelli pairs perfectly with the chicken. Both the rice and vermicelli are cooked in butter, which gives it a lush buttery taste. Oh, and of course, I add the garlic sauce to the rice, too.
Honestly, I never have space for dessert, but it is nearly impossible to resist what comes out of Naya’s kitchen. A sucker for pudding, I ordered the mouhallabie, Lebanese milk pudding flavored with orange blossom water. The subtle purity of the orange blossom water shines through every bite of the fresh milk pudding. And though I was full, I devoured this wholesomely delicious dessert.
Now I’m hopelessly addicted to the elegant homestyle Lebanese cooking of Naya. Plus I look forward to seeing Sara, our congenial waitress with the loveliest smile that adds to the most pleasant of meals.
Posted in Chicken , Lebanese , Middle Eastern , Midtown East
Joe Schnitzel
by Celia Cheng
September 29th, 2008
PITA JOE
2 W 14th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-627-7877
$
Pita Joe has become one of my favorite quick and healthy meal choices since it opened last month off the southwest corner of 5th Avenue and 14th Street.
“Have you had your schnitzel today?” is Pita Joe’s catchy slogan, and it works. And like the slogan, the concept of healthy, organic, Middle Eastern-inspired fast food works, too. The schnitzels, falafels, homemade pitas and sauces are all flavorful, kosher treats.
While there are lots of falafel joints in the City, we rarely see them putting chicken schnitzel, an Israeli specialty, in a pita. It’s such a brilliant and scrumptious idea; I don’t know why it didn’t come to the market sooner. But it’s a good thing that Pita Joe, rather than one of those other joints, is the one making it a hit, as their food is carefully made with high-quality ingredients. For example, the schnitzel is deep-fried in a shallow layer of oil making it light and crisp rather than oily. The pitas, regular and whole wheat, are made on site to insure that they are fresh and fluffy. And the salads are all light and savory. The premises, from the prep kitchen downstairs to the counter tops upstairs, are beautifully maintained, as pristine as the food itself.
The menu is simple with key items that you can mix and match — chicken schnitzel, grilled chicken, falafel, or grilled eggplant — in a pita or a salad. I have a penchant for carbs, so I gravitate towards sandwiches. My two favorites are the Joe Schnitzel (schnitzel in a pita) and The Purple Joe (grilled eggplant nestled in a pita with a hard-boiled egg and hummus). The falafels are also light and spicy, like none I’ve tasted before. All the sandwiches come with greens, tahini and pickles.
My standard fare is now whole-wheat pita with hummus and a slice of grilled eggplant added to my Joe Schnitzel topped off with homemade tahini and hot sauce. As simple as it sounds, when the craving strikes, I can hardly wait for the staff to put the sandwich together before I snatch it and take my first bite.
Continuing with the tasty but healthy agenda, Pita Joe has “the ultimate lemonade stand,” offering raspberry, mango, mint, iced tea and a house special, which features a weekly or seasonal flavor. I’m a huge fan of the mint lemonade, as it seems to be the most natural, and the mint doesn’t overpower the lemonade but spruces it up with a little aroma.
Saving the best for last, let’s talk dessert! There are three options: date brownie, pistachio baklava bar and coconut halva cake. Just talking about them conjures oos and aahs in my head. All three squares are delectable but diverse in flavor profiles. The pistachio baklava bar is very special as shreds of baklava phylo dough and pistachio cover a short bread-like bar. You taste the honey and spices, but its not as sweet or sinful as an actual baklava. The coconut halva cake is also delicious, soft, moist and covered in coconut shreds.
Pita Joe redefines both comfort food and fast food. Unlike most fast food restaurants that smell and feel greasy, it’s Pita Joe’s healthfulness and cleanliness that bring me back, making this addiction one I’m not ashamed of.
Posted in Chicken , Greenwich Village , Israeli , Kosher , Middle Eastern , Pita
