Scottish Gourmet

by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
May 12, 2009

Tom Lewis, chef and owner of Scottish boutique hotel Monachyle Mhor, was recently in town to showcase his talents at The Institute of Culinary Education.

Wowed by his lunch at ICE, I visited the Monachyle Mhor website, and now I can’t wait to visit the family-run farmhouse hotel in the heart of the Trossachs National Park in Scotland. I can just imagine the tranquility and beauty of a luxurious boutique hotel against the bucolic backdrop. In addition to the hotel and restaurant, Tom’s family also runs MHORfish, a fish and chips shop, and MHORbread, the local bakery. Sounds like the perfect foodie retreat.

Here was the ICE lunch menu:

First Course
Warm Salar Flaky Smoked Salmon with baby Ayrshire potatoes, char-grilled Glamis asparagus, free-range egg, anchovy and caper salad

Main Course
“Tongue and cheek”
Slow braised ox tongue and beef cheek, buttered kale, beetroot and horseradish mash and roasted vegetables

Dessert
Raspberry soufflé with a toasted oatmeal praline ice cream and shortbread

I was smitten by “tongue and cheek,” as both tongue and cheek were tender and flavorful, and the beetroot and horseradish mash a fluffy and piquant accompaniment. The best part was that Chef Lewis wanted to assure us that his menu was comprised of dishes for the home cook, so he provided the recipe. I’d recommended trying “tongue and cheek” with some Glengoyne highland single malt whiskey as we did for lunch. Not peaty, the 12- and 17-year-olds, with their beautiful clarity, were the perfect libation to accompany the meats.

For the ox cheeks:
Fresh ox cheeks (one ox cheek yields two portions)
Red wine
Mirepoix of carrot, onion and celery
Bay leaf
Fresh thyme
Good quality dark beef stock

Trim up the ox cheeks of excess fat or sinew.
Pan-fry to color all over.
Deglaze the pan with red wine.
Place cheeks and red wine déglace into deep pan and add mirepoix, bay leaf and thyme, and cover with the stock.
Cover with a paper cartouche and simmer for three hours
OR
Bake in the oven at 285 ºF for 3-4 hours until the meat is very tender and giving- almost flaking.
Leave to cool in the stock, chill.

For the Pickled Tongue:
1 fresh ox tongue
1 1/3 gallons water
3 1/3 lbs salt
1 cup treacle/molasses
1 cup soft brown sugar
+ any suitable spices

Make the brine, and brine for five days or longer (or buy pre-pickled).
Rinse then simmer slowly in dark chicken stock for three to four hours until very tender. (MUST be cooked long enough or it will be tough – skewer test).
Cool in the stock. Reserve the stock for reheating.
Trim the tongue then peel off the skin.

Service:
Ox cheek: Lift ox cheek out of stock (reserve stock for reheating and sauce). Cut to size. Reheat in the cooking liquor.
Tongue: Slice then pan-fry in butter to color then add chicken stock and reheat.
Sauce: Using the dark stock (from ox cheek), pass it through muslin, then reduce until almost syrupy. When reduced add crushed green peppercorns and a slug of brandy. Reduce again. (Do not over-reduce — if too strong then dilute and thicken with arrowroot).
Serve with garnish: Possibly buttered kale and a beetroot and horseradish mash, roasted vegetables.