October 2006
Turkish Delight
by Celia Cheng
Tahmis Caddesi Kalcin Sokak 17
Eminonu, Istanbul
+90-00212-528-0390
Hamdi is renowned for their kebabs. The restaurant has been around since the 70’s although not always at its current location. It’s well situated, next to both the Spice Market and the Grand Bizarre. On a day when you plan to tackle both markets, Hamdi is the ideal place to have lunch. We were seated on the fifth floor by the window, overlooking the Golden Horn, the fresh water river that divides Old Istanbul from the modern part of the city. As with every meal, the cold meze were delicious — the grilled eggplant was a standout at Hamdi. The Turkish pizza also seemed to be very popular, so we each indulged in a small order before proceeding on to the kebabs. The day before, we called to order the testi kebabi— small cubes of lamb meat, peeled tomatoes, small onions, garlic and green pepper fill an earthware jug that is then sealed with dough and cooked for two and a half hours. Once ready, the jug is then presented at the table and cracked open in front of you, letting the juices and aroma ooze out as it’s being served. It was such a delight! Since there were only four of us, and more than enough testi kebabi, the waiters served the remainder to our neighbors at the next table. They graciously responded by urging us to taste the pistachio kebab ( fistikli kebap) they had ordered. The pistachio kebab is not to be missed! Even if you do order the testi kebabi(which you must order in advance since it takes so long to prepare) don’t forget the pistachio kebab! It’s made of minced lamb meat mixed with crushed pistachios and I swear it is a gift from the heavens!
HUNKAR
Mim Kemal Oke Caddesi 21
Nisantasi, Istanbul
+90-00212-225-4665
Hunkar was yet another totally fabulous dining experience, this time in the upscale shopping area of Nisantasi. Serving traditional Ottoman cuisine since 1950, Hunkar has the classic ambience and easy-going yet professional service of an old-school restaurant. Though its current location is deemed modern, the ambience is definitely that of an established restaurant. It also has a historical feel to it, if only because the interior is decorated with street signs from past locations. The restaurant is known for its Hunkar Begendi or meat stuffed eggplant. Chef owner Feridun Urgumu not only cooks but also comes around to chat with customers. He’s jolly and warm, adding to the appeal of the restaurant. It’s home-style Turkish cuisine and everything about the restaurant makes you feel at ease. It’s almost bizarre that this “neighborhood restaurant” is nestled in the midst of fancy antique stores, art galleries and designer boutiques. As always, the meal starts with a wide variety of cold meze, which included a wonderful dish of marinated celery root. We were a bit confused once we were ready to order our mains, but then realized that for those of us who don’t understand Turkish and are not familiar with the menu, the entrees are displayed at the counter in front of the kitchen. Besides the stuffed eggplant, we also ordered lamb served over a mashed eggplant, which is another popular dish, but I found the eggplant part rather disappointing as it was too thick and lacked flavor. The side of chard we ordered was masterfully cooked to retain freshness and flavor. Mmmm! Just thinking about this meal makes me hungry. Unfortunately, it’s not just a subway ride away.
