November 2005
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Tom Colicchio
by Celia Cheng
MAINE CRABMEAT
w/ sweet pea purée, bacon and pink peppercorns
This is one of those dishes that I taste and my jaw drops in amazement and I am reminded of why I love Gramercy Tavern. The crabmeat is cooked in beure blanc and is tender beyond belief; and the base purée just exudes the wholesome good
taste — indeed, the very essence — of the sweet peas. Let’s not forget the importance of bacon, especially when it’s cooked to a perfect crisp. The flavor and crunchiness add a counterpoint to both the taste and the texture of the dish. The peppercorns, though small, have a strong kick to make their presence in the dish pleasantly discernible. Bits of chives and diced tomato, though barely noticeable in their supporting roles, do a good job keeping the combination tasting all the way from fresh to super sublime — and all that’s happening in my mouth. Can I lick the plate?!
