November 2005
Tom Colicchio
by Celia Cheng
Gramercy Tavern is one of my favorite restaurants, and I don’t mean that in the general sense of the phrase. It’s definitely on my top-five list, and that’s because it’s one of those restaurants in New York City that really gets it: The restaurant is large and feels grand, but in a comfortable not stuffy way; you can entertain clients with a classic dining experience in the back dining room or just go for a casual meal in the front tavern; and the food is excellent and the service always attentive.
Tom Colicchio is the chef and co-owner (along with Danny Meyer) of Gramercy Tavern*. In addition to this eleven-year-old New York favorite Tom has nurtured his own family of Craft restaurants: Craft, Craftbar, Craftsteak and ’wichcraft. Not only is he well known in New York, but he’s now also attracting attention across the country with Craftsteak and ’wichcraft in Las Vegas, and as consulting chef at Voysey’s on Kiawah Island, South Carolina.
I have become a fervent fan of ’wichcraft since the recent opening of the Tribeca store and must order lunch there at least once a week. Naturally, the diversity of Tom’s restaurants — ranging from a modern-day haute tavern to a gourmet sandwich shop, and yet each with the same winning formula — piqued my interest, and so I wanted to learn more about the man behind all this.
My findings were not a huge surprise. The success Tom Colicchio has achieved is attributable not only to his excellence as a chef, but also to his passion in life, his business acumen, and his ability to lead and mentor the people who work with him.
This feature is a tribute to Tom as chef-mentor and honors his team of young and talented executive chefs at the five New York restaurants (Craftsteak, a fifth, will be opening in Chelsea in Spring 2006): John Schaefer (Gramercy Tavern), Damon Wise (Craft), Christopher Albrecht (Craftsteak), Akhtar Nawab (Craftbar),* and Sisha Ortúzar (’wichcraft).
Note: The craving dish for each restaurant is a reference for the style of food the restaurant serves. The menu at each restaurant changes depending on what is in season.
* Since publication of this feature, Akhtar Nawab is no longer at Craftbar — February 2006.
* Since publication of this feature, Tom Colicchio has ended his 12-year partnership with Danny Meyer at Gramercy Tavern (Tom has sold his shares of the restaurant to Danny), and is focusing on his Craft-branded restaurants — August 2006.
* Since publication of this feature, Christopher Albrecht is no longer at Craftsteak — January 2007.
