September 2008
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The Inn at Little Washington
by Celia Cheng
My recent visit to The Inn at Little Washington was a phenomenal experience. Under the stewardship of the proprietor, Chef Patrick O’Connell, who truly understands the concept and meaning of hospitality, The Inn is a special place for anyone who comes to stay or dine.
An unforgettable meal paired with impeccable service, gorgeous setting and comfortable atmosphere, culminated in a night that I continue to relive and cherish. From the minute I walked through the front door of The Inn, I was in the capable hands of a team trained to predict my needs and provide service before I even asked. The staff’s every gesture and consideration is meant to make your stay more pleasant. And pleasant it was. Throughout my time at The Inn, one pleasant surprise built on another. And it is unequivocally this seamless precision that attracts a devoted following, as well as top food and hospitality accolades from around the world.
Patrick O’Connell is a visionary. A self-taught chef, O’Connell, and former partner Reinhardt Lynch, rented half of a defunct garage for $200 a month and opened The Inn as a restaurant in 1978. Standing at the corner of Main and Middle Streets in Washington, Virginia, a town of population 158 at the time, The Inn was an instant success. At the same time, the inn itself was also gaining recognition and became a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux organization in 1987. Thus O’Connell is responsible for making Washington, Virginia, a destination and putting it on the map.
Often referred to as the Pope of American Cuisine, O’Connell’s drive for excellence doesn’t stop. 30 years after The Inn first opened, he continues to expand, not only in physical space, with the addition of guest houses such as the spectacular Claiborne House (a 3,200-square-foot cottage, named in honor of the late food journalist Craig Claiborne), but also in his professional pursuits, such as his plan to start his own farm. There is already an herb and cutting garden used by the kitchen across the street from the Claiborne House, but O’Connell’s vision is larger than that as he has purchased acres of land to achieve his goal.
O’Connell’s vision of a dining experience involves a bit of theater, so it’s important to him that the atmosphere of the restaurant and rooms reflects that opulent experience. All of the interior spaces are designed by Joyce Evans, a London-based stage and set designer. Each room is layered in rich fabrics, period antiques and fine art to create the luxurious feel of a country home.
While the interior design is dramatic, the dining area and kitchen are laced with whimsy. Even the uniform of the kitchen staff is rather humorous with their Dalmatian spotted trousers in honor of The Inn’s two Dalmatian mascots, Pearl and JoBe. The cheese cart is a replica of a cow by the name of Ferra, who carries the cheese plate on her back as she is wheeled into the dining room. These whimsical touches help to lighten the mood of a formal dining atmosphere, and they are executed not ridiculously but elegantly, adding to the personality of The Inn.
This was my first visit, but I can’t wait to return. In the meantime, I strongly encourage you to take a trip to Washington, VA, and experience an American countryside vacation like no other at The Inn at Little Washington.
Read more about my dinner at The Inn, or take a photo tour.
