New Mexican Spice-Rubbed Pork Tenderloin
by Cristy-Lucie Alvarado
January 24th, 2008
MESA GRILL
102 5th Ave
(Between 15th & 16th St)
212-807-7400
I typically avoid feeding the celebrity chef craze our country is perpetuating at the moment, but for Bobby Flay’s sophisticated take on Southwestern fare, I willingly surrender. My last visit to Mesa Grill was the most memorable yet.
My friends were visiting from L.A. and we decided on Mesa Grill for their last meal in New York. As we cautiously sipped our rather intoxicating pear cactus margaritas, we couldn’t help but notice the cheesy décor, which included cowboy print banquettes and bold colored columns. The crowd screamed wealthy tourists, which was perfectly suited to an atmosphere that’s reminiscent of a hotel restaurant. Nevertheless, I assured my girls that they were in for a comforting and innovative meal.
With that said, a little package of warm cornbreads and miniature crusty rolls were promptly delivered to our table with a side of soft creamy butter. We instantly attacked the breadbasket and devoured every last morsel. The blue cornbread might have been a bit too crumbly for a good coat of butter, but the rolls allowed us to slather it on generously. Both were warm, delicious, and savory. To our delight, we were brought a second basket, but we set it aside and agreed to get down to business. After some serious evaluating, deliberating, and compromising, my friends and I finally came to a mouth-watering conclusion.
We began our meal with raw tuna nachos and yellow cornmeal-crusted oysters. The nachos were presented as more of a dip. Blue and yellow corn chips encircled a small bowl containing raw chunks of tuna drizzled with a mango hot sauce and an avocado crema, or Mexican sour cream. The dish is more of a novelty than a well-prepared appetizer. The idea of scooping up raw chunks of tuna instead of beans, cheese, and meat is amusing, but not exactly fulfilling. What saved it though were the corn chips. They were brittle, tasty, and definitely a treat. The sauce and crema made for necessary color and seasoning, but they were not anything to rave about in terms of flavor.
The cornmeal-crusted oysters were slightly more satisfying. I loved the refined yellow cornmeal, which gave the oyster a delicate crunchy texture, but the slimy salty oyster itself, for which I worked hard to acquire a taste as a child, was completely overpowered by the yellow crust. The oysters sat in their shells surrounded by a light green curry sauce that you could slurp up at the end, but overall, like the nachos, they were mediocre; nothing compared to the entrée that was to come.
Bobby Flay’s New Mexican spice-rubbed pork tenderloin is the epitome of perfection. The tenderloin is divided into three thick slices and accompanied by a bourbon-ancho chile sauce and sweet potato tamale.* The pork was not cooked a second over medium, leaving the meat tender, juicy, and perfectly rosy. The deep chocolate-colored sauce simply adorned the plate; never compromising the clean flavor and texture of the pork, it was a nice compliment to the robust flavor of the dry spicy rub. The sweet potato tamale’s natural sweetness was enhanced by crushed pecan butter, adding the final touch to a dish that pleased every taste bud.
My friends were astounded by our delectable meal. The alienation we had felt at the start of our evening was long forgotten as we left this haven for the celebrity chef-obsessed both serene and satisfied.
*Ancho chile, meaning “wide pepper” in Spanish, is a dried poblano chile, which takes a wide shape once it’s dry. The dried version of the mild pepper makes it easy to grind and use for sauces.
Tamales are a Native American food consisting of steamed cornmeal dough that sometimes contains meat or cheese and is then wrapped in cornhusk. In this case, the cornmeal dough was combined with sweet potato.
Posted in American , Pork , Union Square
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BLT
by Celia Cheng
September 14th, 2007
UNION SQUARE CAFE
21 E 16th St
(5th Ave & Union Square West)
212-243-4020
Friday lunches at Union Square Café are becoming a habit. It was so crowded at the bar at 1:30 this afternoon that my sister and I had to settle for a table. Everyone was enjoying a leisurely lunch, which is exactly why regulars frequent this classic New York institution, known for it’s sophisticated but laid back atmosphere, impeccable service, and top notch food.
USC’s clientele says a lot about the place; customers tend to the older side, as many have been regulars for more than 20 years. And it’s the consistent service and precise focus on hospitality that have earned USC this loyal following. There are other restaurants whose food I might prefer over USC’s — though, naturally, it’s quite good — but at the end of the day, I would rather come here because it is just so inviting and comfortable. The space is bright and cheerful, as is the staff, but never imposing or annoying, and the jazz playing in the background is relaxing but also adds a pleasant buzz to the bustling restaurant. They don’t call Danny Meyer Mr. Hospitality for nothing. His restaurants truly raise the bar for service in the City. From the maître d’ and the bar tender to the wait staff, everyone is professional, pleasant and patient. I think every restaurant should strive to achieve A+’s on the 3-P’s.
Right now, while tomatoes are still in season, there’s a BLT on the lunch menu. Served on grilled Tom Cat sourdough, with Niman Ranch bacon, Greenmarket tomatoes and arugula, with a side of new potato salad, it was the near perfect lunch. And the side order of Greenmarket sweet corn and a glass of the Cru Beaujolais, Juliénas 2005 Domaine Marius Sangouard, Trenel, made it the perfect lunch.
The sandwich is simple, but the fresh, clean ingredients really make it standout. The BLT is my favorite sandwich of all time because of its simplicity and balance: bacon — all the flavor one could need — with the healthy complements of tomato and greens, sandwiched between mayonnaise-coated bread — what could be better?! The new potato salad is a great side with crunchy pieces of celery and a mildly sour vinegar flavor to counter the saltiness of the bacon. The fresh corn sautéed in butter was yet another classic but savory addition to the meal. The BLT, potato salad and corn were like three pieces of a puzzle that fit together seamlessly. As we slowly move into fall, this ideal summer meal helped prolong the joys of the season. And with the Greenmarket right around the corner, it was reassuring to see where much of the produce came from.
From a very young age, I was encouraged by my father to go into hotel management. Our family is keen on good service and attentiveness. While I did not choose a career in that area, I do appreciate those in the service industry, particularly restaurants, committed to mastering all the little details. Danny Meyer runs his restaurants like hotels, with customer satisfaction as his top priority. Too many restaurants in New York focus on how they want to project their image, hiring staff for the way they look and the attitudes they portray — that may be trend-setting, but it won’t draw loyalty, and definitely not for twenty plus years. The formula seems quite simple to me, and yet, sadly, few have yet to master or even come close to the dignified easy charm of this best-in-class restaurant, Union Square Café.
Posted in American , Lunch , Sandwich , Union Square
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