July 2005
Summer Vegetables
by Celia Cheng
LOIN OF COLORADO LAMB
w/ spicy crushed fennel, mint & pepper caramel
The lamb sits on a bed of caramelized fennel. The fennel is roughly diced, then braised in white wine with onion, and overcooked to achieve the “crushed” texture. The crushed fennel is so soft it melts in your mouth and its sweetness complements the savory lamb. Meanwhile, on the side there is a little salad of fresh fennel with vinaigrette. Tasting and comparing the two ways the fennel is prepared, my palate is first lulled by the rich, smooth caramel taste of the cooked fennel, then rejuvenated by the more pungent raw fennel. The anise-taste of the fennel salad offsets the milder flavor of the cooked fennel. The contrast between the two demonstrates how various cooking techniques can reveal a whole new dimension of a single vegetable. Yummy!
* Since publication of this feature, March has closed — January 2007.
