February 2006
Shida
by Celia Cheng
SOY SAUCE BRAISED PORK BELLY BUN
sour mustard, ground peanuts and cilantro, in Chinese white buns
This is a popular Taiwanese dish. The bun that sandwiches the pork belly and other ingredients is light and fluffy, like the skin of a char-sui bao, but completely smooth. Inside, along with a slice of soy sauce braised pork belly — yummy! I live for pork belly — are an array of flavors that you might find delightfully surprising: ground peanuts (powdery), sour mustard (which is pickled mustard greens) and cilantro. It’s a mixture of sweet, savory and sour flavors all held in check and balance by the neutral, steamed white bun. It tastes so good that you will want more than one, but never underestimate the power of the pork belly. You will be aching later if you decide to be a glutton.
