September 2005
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San Francisco '05
by Celia Cheng
FOREIGN CINEMA
2534 Mission St
(21st & 22nd Sts)
415-648-7600
After much deliberation on where to have brunch on Sunday, especially after a very mediocre, disappointing and expensive dim sum experience on Saturday, my eating entourage and I decided to try Foreign Cinema. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, considering that the restaurant shows foreign films on one of the outdoor courtyard walls while simultaneously serving dinner. Don’t get me wrong, since my three main passions are good food, design and film, but I just wasn’t sure it could be pulled off well. Some restaurants can’t make it on the merit of their cuisine and so they introduce gimmicks. However, in this case my apprehension was completely unfounded. Foreign Cinema offers fresh and delicious meals at reasonable fares and the restaurant setting is simply divine, indoor and out. The overall vision is well executed and definitely deserves to be commended.
Located in the Mission District, Foreign Cinema is unassuming from the street entrance — you walk through a long and dim concrete corridor to emerge at the outdoor patio that is bustling with life and the laughter of cheerful diners basking in the sunlight. I really believe that dining outdoors is one of the most pleasant delights. It certainly puts me in a good mood.
We did have to wait at the bar a little before we were seated, which gave us an opportunity to start drinking and check out the gorgeous indoor dining room. While the architectural features of the interior feels very industrial, the arrangement of tables, use of woods and the nice floral arrangements give it a warmth that is further complemented by the elegant fireplace. I would have been equally happy to dine indoors as out.
For starters, we ordered six half dozen oysters from the oyster bar: “Belon” Bestcott Bay, Beau Soleil, Effingham, Hog Island “Sweet Water,” Marin Atlantic, and Miyagi. The last three all being from Point Reyes, CA, I wanted to taste the difference. Alas, the Beau Soleil and Effingham were my favorites. And though these six were slightly brinier than the creamier oysters I prefer, they were all wonderfully fresh and delicious.
The highlight of my meal was definitely the “Fried eggs deglazed with balsamic, French rose potato and roasted garlic hash with gypsy peppers.” When I see key words on a menu like “fried eggs,” with “potato-garlic hash” I am instantly sold. Though the name is long, there is nothing complicated about the dish — it comes as it’s described and achieves perfection because of the juxtaposition and combination of ingredients that work so well together. The balanced flavors allow one to enjoy the potatoes as much as the eggs or balsamic vinegar.
Foreign Cinema’s bloody mary is spicy and potent, a good choice for BM lovers, but the few and not so interesting champagne/sparkling choices leave something to be desired.
The waiters/waitresses wear sunglasses, not as a point to be cool or snooty but because the courtyard is so bright. I found the service to be entirely pleasant.
There is also a small gallery space across the dining room that serves as a private dining space.
What can I say? Foreign films at dinner, good food, wonderful oyster bar, gallery, outdoor dining space, excellent brunch, and a casual atmosphere — Foreign Cinema seems to have it all.
