December 2005
Rome '05
by Celia Cheng
LA ROSETTA
Via della Rosetta 8/9
@ Piazza della Maddalena
+39-06-686-1002
La Rosetta has been on my list of restaurants to try for several years now. A well-reputed seafood restaurant near the Pantheon, even at its high price point, like the Pantheon it’s a spot on the Rome tour not to be missed.
Noriko and I popped in for a late lunch around 2pm, by which time things were nice and quiet in this popular Roman establishment. The menu was short and sweet, featuring just three to five dishes in each of the five categories from appetizer to dessert. It was a hard selection, with everything looking so good, so we decided to go with the lunch tasting menu, which would allow us a taste of two oysters, two appetizers, a pasta, a fish and a dessert, and all of that without breaking the bank.
I love oysters, and it just feels so civilized to commence a meal with them as hors d’oeuvres. We started with one Fines de Claire n˚2, then moved on to the Spéciales de Claire n˚2. Let me start with a bit of explanation: Fines de Claire are considered Europe’s highest quality oysters. They’re raised in the Marennes-Oléron region in France in what are called claires, converted salt marches with a higher mineral content than normal, which imparts the signature green tinge to these oysters’ shell. Spéciales are Fines that are only available during autumn and winter, because they are kept in the claires for twice as long as the Fines with a maximum of 10 oysters per square meter (whereas the Fines de Claires are raised with a maximum of 20 oysters per square meter) and are thus the more refined, top-of-the-market oysters. The number that follows the names denotes the size, ranging from 1 (largest) to 6 (smallest); the lower the number, the pricier the oyster.
Both oysters were extremely fresh, but the Spéciales was fleshier, richer and brinier, so by comparison you can tell why the Spéciales are considered the cat’s meow. Tasting and comparing is always fun. The Fines de Claire was elegant, with a very delicate flavor and definitely of high quality but when compared to the Spéciales was slightly meager in texture. A great starter, the oysters really whet my appetite.
The two appetizers, an octopus salad with broccoli and salmoriglio sauce (a dressing of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and oregano) and a red prawns salad with steamed artichoke, arrived as two small portions on a single plate. I had been anxious the portions would be large, but they were actually perfect for tasting. The texture of the octopus inside and out was so appealing — chewy on the outside and tender inside, and it was paired with a well-cooked Italian broccoli, which is more delicate than its American counterpart. Salmoriglio is a nice, simple olive oil-based sauce commonly used in Italy to dress fish. Its slight pungency balanced the octopus and broccoli, and overall the balance of taste and expression was its keynote. Balanced, refined, gentle, dulce! The prawns were small and de-shelled, and once again, you could just taste how fresh they were. Steamed artichokes sound simple and, indeed, it was a nice simple dish. But I must say, the Italians really know how to cook their carciofi it was boiled to the point of being just soft enough but not reaching the point of being mushy. Both appetizers were subtle and delicious and just the right amount of food. When I finished I was already eager to find out how the next course would amaze me.
