February 2007
I Heart Oinkers
by Celia Cheng
An Interview with chef William Henry, A True Pork Lover
William Henry is the former chef owner of two restaurants in Portland. He is a great lover of the outdoors and insists on using only seasonal, locally-produced, and organic ingredients. But most importantly, he loves pigs! William chats with Cravings about his relationship with the animal and his love for the food.
When you see a pig, what’s the first thought you have?
What part of that little piggy would I like to taste first…. Yummm, the sides (bacon) look great.
When did you start loving bacon/pork? And how has that shaped your life or growth?
My life has really been forever changed by the pig. After raising many sows (that’s a female breeding pig) and boars in high school and at home (and showing them in Fair’s around my home town county in Vancouver, Washington) it’s really some of the first lessons I could apply to adult life today. I’ve owned as many as four sows, one boar and twelve “market” pigs (at on time), delivered as many as thirty-one pigs in one night, castrated, cut, eyes, teeth, tied umbilical cords, given shots, slaughtered, washed and shown (meaning you walk the pigs in a ring and place into corners as according to a judge’s orders) 1000+ pound pigs…. Let’s just say I know a little more than the average person about pigs.
What’s your favorite pork product? Or list all that you love.
Shanks, pork loin, hocks, jowls, tenderloin, bacon, ham, shoulder, head…. Really every part of the pig… but no ribs, at least not with bones in them. Did I say BACON, bacon and smoked bacon?!
Please share some of your favorite pork dishes and explain why you love them?
Choucroute garnie
Schnitzel
Braised pork shank
Anything that goes with Riesling and is slow-cooked. Pork deserves a chef’s LOVE, all dishes that must cook for 6++ hours are a labor of love.
What are some of your favorite pork dishes in NYC?
DB Bistro — choucroute royale (Monday nights)
Blue Hill — bacon lardon- amuse-bouche (had seven of them for my birthday desert once for the chef’s tasting)
Rosewater Café — side of smoked bacon (brunch)
Eleven Madison Park — Nicole (former pastry chef) made an almond-bacon crusted “French toast” with a praline of bacon and crispy bacon lardon.
Besides pork, can you give me 3 personal cravings?
3. I have a soft spot for late night meals at “Mas”
2. Oysters or the duck club sandwich at Blue Ribbon Bakery
1. Riesling
At this very moment, what’s your favorite type/producer of bacon and why?
Producer is difficult, I was raised on “small farm” or “home-grown” bacon, so I find that the East Coast isn’t as proud of displaying the farmers name on the menu or store shelves.
Do you have any special feelings about this year being the year of the pig?
Maybe throwing an pork only dinner in the next two weeks? Want me to save you a spot?
