April 2006
Paris ’06
by Celia Cheng
Paris is lovely any time of year, but springtime in Paris is magnificent. Despite some hassle I experienced in trying to get into the city from Charles de Gaulle due to the student riots, my trip was perfect. In addition to spending time with friends, it is my goal each year to visit Paris just to breathe and take in its beauty. Whether on the left bank or right, on Pont Neuf or Pont Notre-Dame, on Ile de la Cité or Ile Saint-Louis, Paris is magical — a city so rich in culture and history but also modern and always evolving. Paris is a reminder to me that life is about so much more…
Most trips I take are brief, as I don’t stay longer than four or five days. And as a result of my short stay, I didn’t get the chance to satisfy many of my usual cravings — Berthillon ice cream on Ile Saint-Louis, chocolate sorbet from Jean-Paul Hévin, chocolate éclair from La Maison du Chocolat and my absolute favorite, seasonal tarts from Pierre Hermé. But I did have a couple of wonderful meals, three of which I will share: Le Pré Verre, Le Tagine and Gaya.
Le Pré Verre is my sister’s favorite modern French bistro and is conveniently on the corner of our friend’s apartment in the 5th arrondissement. Chef Philippe Delacourcelle is a master at using spices in his French cooking to evoke some of the most sublime aromas. Everything is delicious! Prize for the day was the parsley ice cream with macerated strawberries. What a delightful and refreshing way to end a meal and a perfect spring treat. Not to mention that Le Pré Verre offers the most amazing formule déjeuner(daily lunch special) deal, including a starter, main and glass of wine for only €12,5. His second and most recent cookbook is being translated into English, thank God! And he’s opening a Le Pré Verre in Tokyo — I can’t wait!
Le Tagine’s Moroccan cuisine is delicious! In that same week, I had tried two other North African restaurants (one in New York and the other in Paris), neither of which even came close to Le Tagine. The credit for this restaurant choice goes to French film directors Olivier Assayas and Laurent Perrin. Cynthia had previously worked with Olivier on one of his films, and our filmmaker friend, Kit Hui, was living in Paris at the time, so Cyn and I were privileged to dine with three filmmakers. We indulged in fun and interesting conversation and quality ethnic food that’s hard to get in Manhattan. I can’t forget the lamb and eggplant tagine. The lamb had no trace of gaminess and was cooked so well that the tender and delicate meat easily fell off the bone. I can still taste the soft and luscious flavor from the sweet onions in this dish.
Last but not least was Gaya, which happens to be on rue du Bac not far from another friend’s apartment. Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s seafood restaurant is contemporary and playful. Though it’s two stories, the space is small, seating 44 in total. While the décor is a bit trendy/modern, the service and atmosphere are intimate and personal. The staff from chef de cuisine to sommelier were all noticeably younger than me, but the levels of professionalism, knowledge, skill and attention to detail were truly impressive. My skate was nicely prepared and came with a potato purée that was out of this world.
Some side notes: Ladurée is definitely suffering from declining quality and service, but Toraya is still a perfect haven for bi-cultural (French-Japanese) teatime — I thoroughly enjoyed my green tea hot chocolate, while lamenting the fact that Toraya closed its New York store several years ago. And the Japanese stand in Marché des Enfants-Rouges is a welcome addition with some seriously pricey but delicious croquettes.
Those who know the Cheng sisters know that I am the Japanophile and Cynthia the Francophile, so understandably, Cyn spent five more days in France than I did on this trip. As Paris is really her turf and love, I am ending my piece here and defer this feature to her, as she guides you through her bistrots à vin adventures.
