Eggs Three Ways

by Cynthia Sin-Yi Cheng
November 15, 2007

EGGS ROTHKO

Egg
135 N 5th St
(Bedford Ave & Berry St)
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718-302-5151

UOVO IN RAVIOLO AL BURRO NOCCIOLA TARTUFATO
(handmade soft egg-yolk-filled raviolo w/ a truffle butter sauce)

San Domenico
240 Central Park S
(Broadway & 7th Ave)
New York, NY 10019
212-265-5959

In Taiwan where I grew up, it seemed egg was present at every meal. For breakfast, we could get a hamburger topped with a crispy fried egg; lunch boxes of pork chop rice come with a tea-infused egg. Even desserts abound with custard variations.

I’m still as fond of eggs as ever and search for examples that succeed in capturing their versatile textures. For breakfast, I frequent Egg in Williamsburg for their eggs Rothko ($6.50). I love the combination of the yolk topped with sharp melted Grafton Cheddar all swimming in the cutout hole of a slice of brioche bread.

My most recent egg love, however, is the uovo in raviolo al burrro nocciola tartufato ($23) from San Domenico. This delicate dish is a fist-size raviolo filled with light, fluffy ricotta, spinach and a runny egg yolk in the middle. When you cut into the center of the raviolo, the golden yolk oozes out. Subtle yet striking, it is a deliciously sensual dish.

Two weekends ago, while attempting to satiate a craving, I whipped up my version of an egg croissant. I took two farm eggs and scrambled them with some arugula and Cheddar, then added a few cuts of a very spicy yellow pepper to give it a punch. With the croissant I had picked up from Le Pain Quotidien, this made for a very satisfying lazy Sunday breakfast at home. Call it Cyn’s Devilish Egg Croissant!