Peperoncino Spaghetti, bottarga di muggine, dried bonito, shrimp oil and pepper cress
by Celia Cheng
August 29th, 2007
ALTA
64 W 10th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-505-7777
$$
As you are well aware by now, I am a bottarga (dried and pressed fish roe) fiend, and I love spaghetti with bottarga. Alta currently has a grey mullet bottarga spaghetti with fragrant shrimp oil and a hint of peperoncino for added heat. Rather than shavings of the bottarga, this version has thin slices of gorgeous orange-colored bottarga that is slightly rubbery in texture and slightly bitter but very tasty. Alta serves all small plates, so you won’t overeat, but I would be more worried about whether you’ll get your fill of this spaghetti or if it will dwell in your memory, calling you repeatedly to come back for more.
Posted in American , Greenwich Village , Pasta , Seafood , Spanish , Tapas
Patatas Bravas
by Celia Cheng
June 24th, 2007
MERCAT
45 Bond St
(Lafayette St & Bowery)
212-529-8600
$$
I love patatas bravas, but honestly, there wasn’t a single tapas restaurant in the City that I thought served a truly good one, despite all the other fantastic dishes on their menus. That was until now. Mercat’s patatas bravas are spectacular! This rendition of the dish brings out the full potential of potatoes and how good they should be. The fried potatoes are perfectly crisp on the outside. The downfall of most patatas bravas is that this layer of skin is not crispy enough and just becomes a thick but stale epidermis. The other stellar component of this piece is the aioli and spicy tomato sauce — a kick that gives the dish its personality. My latest favorite happy hour recommendation is the patatas bravas and a glass of cava at Mercat’s bar!
Posted in Potato , Spanish , Tapas
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Croquetas Cremosas (creamy croquettes)
by Celia Cheng
April 28th, 2007
BOQUERIA
53 W 19th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-255-4160
$$
I LOVE the croquettes at Boqueria! Six little croquettes are served in a long slender dish. There are two each of three varieties. The flavors on the menu change but I’ve tasted the salt cod, mushroom and Serrano ham. The three different types are shaped distinctively but I enjoy not knowing what’s what until I bite into them. The outer crust is thick and crunchy. The mushroom is like a rich, cream of mushroom soup, deep-fried and encapsulated into bite-sized snacks. The codfish and jámon fillings are equally smooth and velvety, calling out for me to order more.
Posted in Flat Iron District , Spanish , Tapas
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Cojonudo
by Celia Cheng
December 25th, 2006
BOQUERIA
53 W 19th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-255-4160
$$
This mini egg and sausage open face sandwich is adorable and addictive. A fried quail egg layered on a slice of chorizo on top of toast make up this dainty little treat. They’re bite size, and an order only comes with two, so get ready to place lots of repeat orders! Though I’m a fan of almost all the tapas at Boqueria, the cojonudo is definitely a favorite!
Posted in Flat Iron District , Spanish , Tapas
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Crispy Brussels Sprouts, Mutsu Apples, Crème Fraiche & Pistachio Nuts
by Celia Cheng
August 13th, 2006
ALTA
64 W 10th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
Manhattan
212-505-7777
$$
I know most people’s reaction to Brussels sprouts is to cringe, but I honestly have always liked this bulbous green vegetable. Chef Harrison Mosher’s crispy Brussels sprouts take it to a whole new level. The Brussels sprouts are caramelized until crispy so that it’s more like popping candy in your mouth than encountering a misunderstood vegetable with a bad rep. The common assumption is that Brussels sprouts are tasteless or bitter with no redeeming qualities, but these sure aren’t tasteless. You’ll look at them in a completely new light.
Posted in American , Spanish , Tapas
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