New England Clam Chowder
by Celia Cheng
June 18th, 2008
PEARL OYSTER BAR
18 Cornelia St
(W 4th & Bleecker St)
212-691-8211
$$
Posted in American , Seafood , Soup , West Village
Soft Shell Crab Summer Roll
by Celia Cheng
May 27th, 2008
CAFÉ ASEAN
117 W 10th St
(6th & Greenwich Ave)
212-633-0348
$
The soft shell crab summer roll is currently a special on Café Asean’s menu, and it’ll only be around for the next two weeks, so go quick! A great variation on the traditional Vietnamese summer roll, the deep-fried soft shell crab is an amazing substitute for shrimp. Arugula adds a refreshing and pungent kick while the mango strikes a sweet contrast. The cucumber is crisp and the avocado — well, that just makes everything taste good. All these goodies wrapped in rice paper make a light and cool summer dish. And don’t forget the kaffir lime and jalapeño chili sauce that’s made in house. It’s spicy but a must-add!
Posted in American , Seafood , Vietnamese , West Village
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Uni Ikura Soba
by Celia Cheng
November 28th, 2007
SOBAKOH
309 E 5th St
(1st & 2nd Ave)
212-254-2244
$$
Fall (specifically October and November) is prime soba season! This is when “new” soba — fresh soba noodles made from ground buckwheat grain that’s just been harvested — arrives. Given my never-dying fervor for soba and uni, the uni ikura soba combination is a match made in heaven for me! While I still think that Sobakoh’s buckwheat noodles are a bit too soft, this cold soba dish is an elegant composition of ingredients that are both executed and presented with grace. With shreds of shiso and seaweed, plus fresh ground wasabi, the strong and distinctive flavors are perfectly balanced and never overpowering. If you don’t see this on the menu, ask for it!
Posted in East Village , Japanese , Noodles , Seafood
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Peperoncino Spaghetti, bottarga di muggine, dried bonito, shrimp oil and pepper cress
by Celia Cheng
August 29th, 2007
ALTA
64 W 10th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-505-7777
$$
As you are well aware by now, I am a bottarga (dried and pressed fish roe) fiend, and I love spaghetti with bottarga. Alta currently has a grey mullet bottarga spaghetti with fragrant shrimp oil and a hint of peperoncino for added heat. Rather than shavings of the bottarga, this version has thin slices of gorgeous orange-colored bottarga that is slightly rubbery in texture and slightly bitter but very tasty. Alta serves all small plates, so you won’t overeat, but I would be more worried about whether you’ll get your fill of this spaghetti or if it will dwell in your memory, calling you repeatedly to come back for more.
Posted in American , Greenwich Village , Pasta , Seafood , Spanish , Tapas
Spaghetti con Bottarga (spaghetti w/ bottarga di tonno, parsley & pepperoncini)
by Celia Cheng
July 27th, 2007
BELLAVITAE
24 Minetta Ln
(6th Ave & MacDougal St)
212-473-5121
$$
Cured and pressed fish roe, or bottarga, is well-known in Greece, and on a recent trip there I enjoyed it with pasta so much that upon returning, I rushed back to Bellavitae for their Italian version that I always relish: spaghetti con bottarga. Spaghetti is undoubtedly my favorite type of pasta, and the simple, classic combination of olive oil, parsley, garlic and pepperoncini makes me happy as a clam. Bellavitae adds finely grated bits of tuna bottarga, giving the dish a salty flavor of the sea that elevates it to the heavens! It is generally only available in the summer, but even if you don’t see it on the menu, ask for it, and you might get lucky!
Posted in Greenwich Village , Italian , Pasta , Seafood
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