Cravings: Craving

Pilaf

by Celia Cheng
September 18th, 2006

CAFÉ KASHKAR
1141 Brighton Beach Ave
(Brighton 14th & Brighton 15th St)
Brighton Beach, Brooklyn
718-743-3832
$

Uighur cuisine is my dream come true — a combination of Chinese and Turkish influences. Café Kashkar’s pilaf is a mixture of fried rice, carrots, lamb and spices. The rice is rich and flavorful with a bright orange-yellow tint. Unlike many pilafs that come out exceedingly dry, this one is almost buttery, and the spices and generous use of cumin give it a full essence. The lamb (on the bone) is perfectly tender. In addition, accents of chickpeas and the well-cooked, soft shreds of carrot make the sum of this dish the best pilaf ever.

Posted in Brighton Beach , Chinese , Lamb , Rice

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Seafood Egg White Fried Rice

by Celia Cheng
June 28th, 2006

ORIENTAL GARDEN
14 Elizabeth St
(Canal & Bayard St)
212-619-0085
$$

Fried rice should not be brown or adulterated with soy sauce in the cooking process. It should be as white as rice is. It shouldn’t be overly greasy either. Oriental Garden’s seafood fried rice is pure white, with egg whites and shrimp. Egg whites are used not for dietary or low-cholesterol reasons but because they have a cleaner and lighter taste and balance well with seafood. This fried rice is relatively light and shows the delicacy and care taken in making true Chinese food.

Posted in Chinese , Rice , Seafood

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Shiso Rice

by Celia Cheng
May 22nd, 2006

OMEN
113 Thompson St
(Prince & Spring St)
212-925-8923
$$$

While Omen’s entire menu offers a variety of delicious Kyoto-style Japanese dishes, I love to order the shiso rice with soup at the end of a meal. The shiso flavor is subtle but delightful. Instead of miso, I prefer the suimono (clear broth) for soup and, of course, a side of tsukemono (pickled vegetables). The experience is clean and pure but hits the spot, which makes it simply good.

Posted in Japanese , Rice

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Tunisian Rice

by Celia Cheng
January 18th, 2006

EPICES DU TRAITEUR
103 W 70th St
(Columbus & Amsterdam Ave)
212-579-5904
$$

Steamed rice, chopped spinach, chickpeas and lamb, seasoned with mint, Tunisian rice at Epices is a refreshing change of pace. It is delicious with all the right flavors working together and not against each other. Epices is one of those nice neighborhood restaurants with an excellent fare that helps the UWS culinary scene.

Posted in Lamb , Meat , Moroccan , Rice

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Yakionigiri (Grilled Riceball)

by Celia Cheng
January 18th, 2006

YAKITORI TOTTO
251 W 55th St
(B’way & 8th Ave)
212-245-4555
$$$

Yakionigiri is grilled rice ball. It’s commonly served at restaurants that specialize in grilled skewers or izakayas, Japanese pubs. The rice ball is usually coated with soy paste and then grilled; this gives it more flavor and texture. The yakionigiri at Yakitori Totto is super tasty, because this restaurant is a grilling specialist and the food is just excellent in general.

Posted in Japanese , Rice

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