Peperoncino Spaghetti, bottarga di muggine, dried bonito, shrimp oil and pepper cress
by Celia Cheng
August 29th, 2007
ALTA
64 W 10th St
(5th & 6th Ave)
212-505-7777
$$
As you are well aware by now, I am a bottarga (dried and pressed fish roe) fiend, and I love spaghetti with bottarga. Alta currently has a grey mullet bottarga spaghetti with fragrant shrimp oil and a hint of peperoncino for added heat. Rather than shavings of the bottarga, this version has thin slices of gorgeous orange-colored bottarga that is slightly rubbery in texture and slightly bitter but very tasty. Alta serves all small plates, so you won’t overeat, but I would be more worried about whether you’ll get your fill of this spaghetti or if it will dwell in your memory, calling you repeatedly to come back for more.
Posted in American , Greenwich Village , Pasta , Seafood , Spanish , Tapas
Spaghettini Pomodoro
by Celia Cheng
September 18th, 2006
BIANCA
5 Bleecker St
(Bowery & Lafayette St)
212-260-4666
$
Bianca’s homemade spaghettini is an egg noodle that twists and curls naturally and has a great texture and a nice bite. With lots of tomatoes and basil to complete the dish, it’s simple, rustic and hearty. The tomatoes are juicy, and the egg noodles are addictive. At this charming neighborhood restaurant, the spaghettini pomodoro is just one of many good reasons why the regulars keep it packed every night.
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Macaroni & Cheese
by Celia Cheng
July 12th, 2006
E.A.T.
1064 Madison Ave
(80th & 81st St)
Manhattan
212-861-2544
$$$
No two mac ’n cheeses are truly alike. E.A.T.’s version uses penne, two types of cheeses (Swiss and Parmesan) and breadcrumbs. The blend of the two cheeses creates a rich, thick texture. It’s not runny but rather really substantial and copious. The Swiss cheese gives it a slightly bitter sharpness. At $18, this is a very expensive mac ‘n cheese, but it is actually absolutely delicious and worth the splurge every once in a while.
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Spaghetti alle Vongole
by Celia Cheng
March 30th, 2006
CELESTE
502 Amsterdam Ave
(84th & 85th St)
212-874-4559
$
Celeste’s spaghetti alle vongole is really one of those dishes that sustains my being. I crave it all the time. When I used to live on the UWS, I would have it at least once a week. This is not a fancy dish, but Celeste makes it well and consistently. The clams are fresh, the parsley and garlic add flavor and the spaghetti is cooked to a perfect al dente. I love Celeste’s home-style cooking and reasonable prices. For $9.50, this is a steal and a craving that I will remember to my death.
Homemade Chicken & Wild Mushrooms Tortelloni w/ Truffle Oil
by Celia Cheng
March 29th, 2006
VIA EMILIA
47 E 21st St
(B’way & Park Ave)
212-505-3072
$$
I am always drawn to dishes that include truffle oil. Via Emilia’s homemade tortelloni is no exception, but it’s not just the truffle oil that makes it good. The combination of ingredients and the homemade preparation make it a real winner — it’s delicious. Another down-to-earth, easy-to-miss, great Italian eatery on Park Avenue South. It’s the best option in the area by far.
Posted in Chicken , Italian , Pasta
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