Spaghetti w/ Fresh Tomato Sauce & Basil
by Celia Cheng
July 28th, 2008
SCARPETTA
355 W 14th St
(8th & 9th Ave)
212-691-0555
$$$
Scott Conant’s spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and basil is unparalleled. Even the original Underground Gourmet, Milton Glaser, agrees that as easy as it seems, this spaghetti is just outstanding. It was one of my favorite pastas in town when Conant was chef at L’Impero, and I was mortified when they took it off the menu after he left. But a year later, I am thrilled he’s put out a slightly modified version at his new restaurant, Scarpetta. I hear that the secret is the butter and cheese, which makes it rich, but what I love is the fresh fragrant tomato and basil. No one makes it quite like this.
Posted in Italian , Meat Packing District , Pasta
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Gnocchi
by Celia Cheng
August 29th, 2007
CACIO E PEPE
182 2nd Ave
(11th & 12th St)
212-505-5931
$$
The pastas at Caio e Pepe are always gratifyingly tasty, but the homemade gnocchi is truly exceptional as these potato pasta dumplings melt in your mouth. The sauce changes seasonally, and right now as part of the summer menu, it’s a rabbit and artichoke white wine sauce that tastes like a scrumptious mirepoix-based rabbit stew. The rabbit meat is so tender that if it were on the bone, it would glide off. I actually think this would be the ideal hearty winter meal, but the menu will have changed by then. Regardless, I’m sure the new seasonal sauce will be equally divine!
Posted in East Village , Italian , Pasta
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Spaghetti con Bottarga (spaghetti w/ bottarga di tonno, parsley & pepperoncini)
by Celia Cheng
July 27th, 2007
BELLAVITAE
24 Minetta Ln
(6th Ave & MacDougal St)
212-473-5121
$$
Cured and pressed fish roe, or bottarga, is well-known in Greece, and on a recent trip there I enjoyed it with pasta so much that upon returning, I rushed back to Bellavitae for their Italian version that I always relish: spaghetti con bottarga. Spaghetti is undoubtedly my favorite type of pasta, and the simple, classic combination of olive oil, parsley, garlic and pepperoncini makes me happy as a clam. Bellavitae adds finely grated bits of tuna bottarga, giving the dish a salty flavor of the sea that elevates it to the heavens! It is generally only available in the summer, but even if you don’t see it on the menu, ask for it, and you might get lucky!
Posted in Greenwich Village , Italian , Pasta , Seafood
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Vermicelli Alla Carbonara
by Celia Cheng
March 21st, 2007
LUPA
170 Thompson St
(Bleecker & Houston St)
212-982-5089
$$$
Lupa’s carbonara is a classic craving for many New Yorkers, including myself. It’s simple and traditional: al dente vermicelli, crunchy guanciale — unsmoked bacon made from pig’s cheeks — beautifully sliced scallions, gooey egg yolk and just the right dose of cracked black pepper (it rivals any cacio e pepe). The carbonara sauce is runny, which is perfect. Once all the noodles have been devoured, a few pieces of guanciale are usually still milling about in a few last drops of pepper-specked sauce. I sop up all that delicious goodness with Lupa’s focaccia; no sane person would leave it behind. Yum!
Posted in Greenwich Village , Italian , Pasta
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Orecchiette Pork Ragu
by Celia Cheng
March 13th, 2007
EMPLOYEES ONLY
510 Hudson St
(10th & Christopher St)
212-242-3021
$$$
Once you try Employees Only’s orecchiette pork ragu, you won’t be able to stop thinking about it. This heavenly ragu is made from slow-cooked pork shoulder, carrots, onions, tomatoes and lots of red wine. With large chunks of tomato, meat so tender that it falls apart, little ears of pasta and gooey melted cheese, this sublime assemblage really hits the spot. After a late night of drinking, nothing will satisfy your craving for comfort like this ragu!
Posted in American , Italian , Pasta , West Village
