April 2008
Crazy for Coffee
by Celia Cheng
There are some things we just can’t live without, and for many, coffee is at the top of that list. An important commodity in our everyday lives, its prevalence seems only second to water. From large corporations like Starbucks, McDonald’s and Dunkin’ Donuts, to stand-alone artisanal shops, New York’s coffee business is thriving. So this month, our feature on coffee includes food cravings that incorporate our favorite addiction and a short list of coffee shops.
WALLSÉ
Viennese Mélange Sabayon
espresso sabayon w/ coffee ice cream and almond whipped cream
($12)
The Viennese Mélange Sabayon looks deceptively like a regular cappuccino, but it’s really a multi-layered frozen treat. At the bottom is a layer of espresso sabayon, with two scoops of coffee ice cream in the middle, topped with a frothy layer of almond whipped cream. The consistencies of all three layers meld into one another — creamy, refreshing and smooth — and they must all be tasted together for the full effect. The almond whipped cream holds its weight by adding subtle nutty flavor and cuts the edge of its richer coffee counterparts. It’s extremely light, bouncy and perfectly balanced. Wallsé pastry chef Matthew Lodes once again blows me away with this new creation.
CAFÉ BOULUD
Coffee Opera Cake
w/ chocolate ice cream
($14)
Raphael Haasz, Café Boulud’s pastry chef, insists that his coffee opera cake is traditional, but the delicate details as well as the pairing of chocolate ice cream with crumble make this one stand out. Made with two layers of Jaconde biscuit (a sponge cake baked in thin layers with almond flour, nuts and whipped egg white), it’s then topped with coffee buttercream, a layer of bittersweet chocolate ganache, and dark chocolate glaze. Chef Haasz explains that the secret to why it tastes so good is that he soaks the Jaconde biscuit in about four and a half pounds of coffee syrup, which explains its potency, too! Decorated with a chocolate phyllo dough ribbon and chocolate sticks, the opera cake is served with Guanaja (a high grade bitter dark valrhona chocolate from South America made of 70% cocoa) ice cream atop chocolate crumble. The cake is rich and spongy, the ice cream refreshing and the crumble crunchy. Combined, it’s coffee-chocolate heaven.
THE RED CAT
Grilled Double-Cut Pork Chop
w/ wilted romaine, dates, feta, gigantes and pumpkin seed pesto
($23)
There’s no mention of coffee where this dish is listed on The Red Cat menu, but you can’t miss it in the earthy aroma and juicy flavor of this pork chop that’s marinated in ground coffee and brown sugar for a few days before it’s chargrilled. The double-cut chop is so popular that executive chef Bill McDaniel sometimes keeps it on the menu longer than it’s usual run. Cooking pork chops is a challenge as they can often be too dry, so the coffee helps to bring out the succulence. And succulent it is. When cut into it, the juices ooze out. And the subtle coffee flavor is found both in the meat as well as from the charred grounds. The chop is served on a bed of wilted romaine with dates, feta, giant Greek white beans, and pumpkin seed pesto. The sweetness of the dates balances the feta, and the pumpkin seeds give a little earthiness to the fresh greens. This is a savory coffee dish that you won’t want to miss.
MARTINE’S CHOCOLATES
Heart
cappuccino bonbon, filled with layers of coffee-flavored ganache & whipped cream ($2.75)
Every time I try one of chocolatier Martine Leventer’s chocolates, I fall in love all over again. Thus, the heart shape of these cappuccino bonbons is highly appropriate. Layers of coffee-flavored ganache are topped with another layer of whipped cream in a dark, milk or white chocolate couveture. The smooth rich texture of the ganache and cream is a pure delight. As Cristy-Lucie likes to say, “It’s like velvet in my mouth.”
FALAI
Tiramisu
($10)
Iacopo Falai’s tiramisu breaks the tired convention of this ubiquitous Italian dessert. It’s a deconstructed version that lays all the ingredients on a plate with espresso poured over, allowing the diner to play and decide what components to eat at the desired proportion. It makes dining fun again in a thought-provoking way. English cream with mascarpone, coco butter, 55% cacao dark chocolate, dehydrated coco powder and a light coffee biscuit make up this delicious medley. Chef Falai takes his artistry very seriously, with details like crystallized pansy petals and spinetta jelly that also emphasize the decorative element and complete the work of art.
CRAFTSTEAK
Cinnamon Doughnuts
w/ coffee granita & espresso chantilly
($12)
At Craftsteak pastry chef Erica Leahy serves cinnamon doughnuts with coffee Granita and espresso chantilly. This is quite the grand finale to a steak dinner. It’s hard to resist doughnuts, especially when they are powdered with cinnamon and sugar, and they are even more irresistible when served over a crème anglaise with the delicate flavors of orange, cinnamon, cardamom and Tahitian vanilla infused in the custard. No need to order after-dinner coffee, as the doughnuts are accompanied by a side of coffee granita and espresso cream with a dusting of dried orange on top. The coffee flavor in both the granita and the chantilly is strong enough to match up to the hearty prior meat course but lightens it with a sweet touch.
NORTH SQUARE
Coffee Panna Cotta
w/ chocolate-covered espresso beans and candied corn flakes
($8)
The coffee panna cotta at North Square is a fun mix of textures: the perfectly soft coffee pudding, the smooth chocolate coating of the espresso beans, and the slightly muffled crunch of caramel-covered corn flakes. Pastry chef Pat Coston has concocted a dessert that takes its cue from breakfast: coffee and corn flakes. Who would have thought? But it works. The subtle coffee flavor gives the panna cotta more personality, and the corn flakes are addictive. If you don’t mind a double strength caffeine buzz, this dessert would actually go well with a cup of coffee.
