October 2007
Chicago '07
by Celia Cheng
My year so far has been one of remarkable discoveries in American culinary excellence. Besides the constantly changing culinary landscape of New York, I’ve relished the tastes from top chefs in Portland, Honolulu and Washington D.C. However, the most eye-opening experience was my recent trip to Chicago. Whatever has inspired the chefs in the Windy City to produce the most innovative and exquisite cuisine in America, I don’t know, but I hope it continues and spreads to the rest of the country because this Chicago phenomenon is truly unparalleled.
The three highlights I’ll share in this month’s feature are Alinea, Green Zebra and Sepia. Though all three restaurants serve modern American fare, they are stylistically unique in their approach and mission.
When asked, “What exactly is contemporary American cuisine?” I am pressed for an adequate answer. For me, it’s what good chefs are doing here in America, compounding their fine training, whatever the origins, with their personal sense and interpretation to create their own cuisine. It’s not fusion, though the ingredients and influences may be international, but it’s understanding the composition of food, its ingredients, tastes and properties, to create new flavor profiles that work. Hence the difficulty pinpointing exactly what that is, since each chef’s style varies.
I don’t often try to define “new American cuisine,” but this Chicago excursion really got me thinking about it. And it has also given me the opportunity to showcase the best in class. Bravo, Chicago! And bravo, Alinea, Green Zebra, and Sepia!
