by Celia Sin-Tien Cheng
August 21, 2005
240 W 14th St
(7th & 8th Aves)
New York, NY 10011
The “3p” in Crispo’s carbonara stands for pancetta, smoked pancetta and proscuitto. It all sounds rather complicated and fancy, but it really works. In addition to the three types of pork, there is also frisée mixed in to give the spaghetti an added texture and it’s a welcome addition to the mix. Finally, there’s a poached egg on top, which when mixed in, just gives it that added something that completes the dish.
Crispo is a relatively large restaurant, with some outdoor seating in the front, facing 14th street, then a main dining room as well as garden seating in the back. The first time I visited I found the prices a bit daunting for a neighborhood restaurant, but after my second visit I’ve decided that it’s entirely worth it and that this really isn’t just a neighborhood restaurant but a destination. The food really is good and there’s pride taken in the preparation and serving of the food.
In addition to the carbonara, I tried the lamb Milanese, and proscuitto with creamy polenta and smoked mozzarella, both of which were also delicious and not overly heavy.
The carbonara is definitely one of those dishes I crave and will travel for, but Crispo’s menu does offer a variety of other dishes that I’m also excited about trying.